With the SS27 fashion season firmly in the rear view mirror, now is the time to take stock of over 400 new collections we’ve seen across the Big Four cities (yes, that number is correct). This season, designers from across the spectrum ramped up the sex appeal, because, for an industry designed to sell clothes, what sells better than sex? Elsewhere, snakes slithered all over the catwalks, headwear got even freakier and bras popped out of their gowns. For all those trends and more, scroll down for our SS27 runway report.

BRAS BRAVELY OUT

Not only were bras worn as tops this season, like at Mowalola, Fendi and Tom Ford, but dresses were designed to intentionally curve around and expose the garments, like Jean Paul Gaultier’s racy nighties and Givenchy’s figure-hugging gowns. Elsewhere, KNWLS’ London collection was all about the art of undressing: Ester Manas teamed up with lingerie brand Primadonna, while more exposed bras were spotted at Julie Kegels, Prada and MM6 Maison Margiela. The bras are bravely out and facing the world.

IT’S SHEDDING SEASON

Snakes slithered their way onto the runway across a number of collections this season. Telfar’s Paris show (that was actually livestreamed from New York) was covered in snakeskin print, as was Yaku Stapleton’s in London and Mugler in Paris. They were even sliding all over Dries Van Noten’s show – not just snakeskin print, but graphics of literal snakes. Maybe these designers are pointing at new beginnings, as we all long to symbolically shed our skin, leaving our old selves (and our troubles) behind.

SEX SELLS

From iconic glamour models to soundtracks full of moans, designers this season were well and truly letting their freak flags fly. In London, Natasha Zinko tapped Katie Price for her runway and also teamed up with OnlyFans, while R&M Leathers made its spicy catwalk debut in collaboration with Pornhub. In Milan, audience plants made out with each other during Diesel’s runway, and Tom Ford got us hot under the collar in Paris. Read Megan Wallace’s full feature on the trend here, which unpacks fashion’s current obsession with the sexual underground.

FREAKY HEADGEAR

Headgear got freaky this season with Jean Paul Gaultier reinterpreting its infamous conical motif into a pointy hat, Mugler constructing some towering fascinators and Chloé implementing some poetic license on its translucent rain hats. Of course, many designers have been into freaky headwear since the beginning of time, and this season Comme des Garçons and Noir Kei Ninomiya also delivered with their masterful creations.

ROMANTIC POUFS

Things got big and poufy across most of the major cities this season. In New York, Collina Strada and Vaquera leant into grand, Renaissance-esque pieces, while McQueen’s London’s return also featured a few of them. Vivienne Westwood – a torchbearer for historical silhouettes – continued on in the same vein in Paris, while Acne Studios found inspiration in the New Romantic scene of the 1980s, who themselves were inspired by the Romantic period of the late 18th century.