A Fall Getaway to Stowe Mountain Resort: When Vermont’s Green Mountains Turn Gold

Stowe, Vermont, is without a doubt one of the premier destinations in North America for fall foliage. The region’s topography — defined by the dramatic spine of the Green Mountains and a dense canopy of sugar maples, beech, and birch trees — creates a colorful kaleidoscope that attracts leaf-peeping enthusiasts from around the world. Although Stowe, in the north-central part of the state, is just 60 miles (97 km) from the Quebec border, and roughly 100 miles (161 km) from where I live on Montreal’s south shore, in the day-to-day rush of life in the city it can feel worlds away.

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I set out on a solo mission to capture the foliage, and soak up the stoke for winter, but it was also a homecoming. Vermont has felt like my extended home since I moved to Quebec in the late 1990s. I’ve been dreaming of my late-September trip to Stowe Mountain Resort for weeks. Lamoille County — the rugged northern district that encompasses iconic peaks, winding gap roads, and historic mountain towns — is especially close to my heart. Over several years, the stretch of Route 100 between Morrisville and Stowe became a familiar rhythm woven into everyday life. I thought I knew every inch of this county, but the mountains here have a way of hiding their secrets until you slow down and look for them.

Monday: Mountain Luxury at The Lodge at Spruce Peak

My journey began on Monday with an easy two-hour drive from Brossard. I arrived at The Lodge at Spruce Peak — Stowe’s premier luxury property — just after 4:00 p.m. check-in. The thing about finally being on an adventure that you’ve been working up in your head is that you’re always too excited to sleep the night before. That rule applies whether you’re 5 or 55.

I was exhausted by the time I arrived, and grateful for the helpful valets, and seamless check-in. My mountain-view studio felt cozy the moment the door clicked open. Walking out onto the balcony, the mountain air carried the crisp scent of Vermont pine and wood smoke — a distinct sensory shift that signals you’ve arrived in the maple state. To cap the evening, I splurged on room service, wrapped myself in a blanket by the fireplace, and schemed about the next day.

Tuesday: Village Comforts and Talus Secrets

Tuesday morning brought that classic, moody New England autumn weather — misty rain and dense fog, with the occasional burst of full sun. Against the low-hanging mist, neon pops of gold, fiery orange, and deep crimson leaves looked electric, saturated against the moody landscape. I started my day in Stowe Village at the Black Cap Coffee & Bakery, a personal staple since my now grown kids were babies, with a second location in Morrisville village. I ordered a cappuccino and a flaky, buttery, house-baked croissant, and sat myself at a comfy table at the back.

Warmed up and caffeinated, I strolled the historic village, checking out the local shops. The legendary Shaw’s General Store — celebrating over 120 years on Main Street — offers souvenirs along with every clothing item you need to outfit for the elements, from rich leather, to wool, and traditional waxed canvas. Just down the road at Stowe Mercantile, the smell of apple cider donuts and maple fudge hits the senses the moment you walk in. You could spend a full day or more soaking up the nostalgia of the village, but I had a full itinerary in mind. I unloaded my bike from where I’d parked behind Shaw’s and headed towards the Stowe Recreation Path. Located behind the historic Stowe Community Church, the 5.3 mile path winds along the West Branch of the Little River and out through vast, open meadows. The trail traverses what was at one time farmland, preserved by the town for anyone to enjoy. I rode out as far as Stowe Cider before looping back.

With the sky clearing up, I packed up my bike to head toward Smugglers’ Notch. The state shuts down this high-mountain pass from mid-November until mid-May every year, making a summer or autumn drive an absolute must-do. Instead of entering from the Stowe side, I drove around the mountain through Morrisville and Johnson to Jeffersonville, to drive the pass southward back into Stowe. The winding stretch of route 108 squeezes through 1,000-foot cliffs and narrows to a single lane. Used by locals to smuggle goods past the British during the Embargo Act of 1807, the pass today feels like holy ground for mountain enthusiasts. Driving beneath the fiery autumn canopy as it closes around the roadway gives Lord of the Rings vibes and provides a raw look at the sheer vertical scale of the notch.

My last time here, I was wrangling three kids as they scrambled over tree branches and giant, glaciated boulders, biting my nails and hoping nobody slipped. This time it was just me, my camera, and the quiet. Without little ones to look after, I stepped a little deeper up into the talus slope, my inner mountain goat come to life. The mist made the forest canopy feel surreal and atmospheric, dampening the sound of the wind until the woods were still. Returning from my mountain adventure, I ended my first full day with a moonlight swim. The Lodge at Spruce Peak graciously keeps their outdoor pool open until 10:00 PM. Soaking in the steaming water under the darkened Vermont sky was the perfect antidote to tired legs. I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

Wednesday: Cloud Inversions, Jewel-Tones, and Fine Dining

The final day of my trip started early. I drove the iconic Mount Mansfield Auto Toll Road. My advice is if you’re scared, do it scared. I was terrified, and I was second in line at 8:30 AM when the gate opened. A special shout out to Megan, who pointed out the sports function on my rental vehicle, and offered clear, cheerful instructions. The shorthand rules are simple: take it slow, downshift on the descent, yield to uphill traffic. The 4.5-mile unpaved road climbs up the ridgeline, leaving the valley floor behind to a final elevation of 3,850 feet. It was foggy and slick in places, narrowing as the upper heights wrapped themselves in a dense alpine mist. The route is lined with pieces of the mountain’s living history. About two miles up, you pass the Stowe Mountain Chapel, a circular sanctuary built of native stones. Near the top of the Four Runner Quad lift, is The Stone Hut, a 1930s cottage built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, a silent sentinel alongside the home base of the Mount Mansfield Ski Patrol.

The ascent demands a steady nerve and sound driving skills through the clouds, but reaching the top revealed something surreal. Stepping out at the parking lot, I realized I had completely broken through the weather. Call it kismet, but my adventure happened to occur during a spectacular cloud inversion. Though the top was clear, below was a blinding white ocean. Looking straight ahead across the cloud deck, the rugged peaks of the Adirondack Mountains broke through the horizon like distant islands. Looking up to the right along the ridgeline, you can see the mountain’s old transmitter station near the historic site of the old Summit House hotel. I held back my nerves to take everything in. By the time I started back down I’d achieved a certain confidence, cheering on and giving instructions to drivers on the way up.

From the toll road, I made my way over to the Gondola Skyride, where the leaves put on a sensational display of ruby, crimson, fire orange, and gold. After a quiet meditation, and taking in the views at the summit, I sat down for lunch at the Cliff House. The hostess mentioned that the resort was testing their snow guns that morning. For a moment, my mind drifted from the golden peak of autumn to the promise of winter white. As for the meal, delicious. The roasted red pepper tomato soup was velvety and paired perfectly with a signature cocktail featuring Grand Marnier and a sharp, spicy Tajin rim. I reasoned that after my white-knuckle drive, I’d earned myself a fancy drink. The vibrant rich hues on my plate beautifully mirrored the colored leaves scattered across the mountains. Big thanks to Chef Wes and the entire staff at The Cliff House for their incredible hospitality.

Timing the Perfect Leaf-Peeping Getaway to Stowe, Vermont

For travelers planning an autumn escape, timing is everything. The official foliage season in Stowe runs from early September through mid-to-late October, though the sweet spot for color traditionally hits between the last week of September and the first two weeks of October. There are still, at least, two solid weeks of leaf-peeping to enjoy. Keep in mind that elevation plays a role—higher points like Mount Mansfield peak much earlier than the historic village down below. If you want to avoid the weekend crowds, booking a mid-week stay is the ultimate insider flex.

Related: Stowe, VT, Ski & Ride School Marks 90 Years of Snowsports Tradition

Vermont is one of those places that is easy to get to, but very difficult to leave behind. It’s never a goodbye, but always a see you soon. I stretched the final hours of the trip by driving the scenic mountain routes, heading out through Smugglers’ Notch and Jeffersonville instead of jumping straight onto I-89. Vermont’s glorious Green Mountains are full of secrets and surprises, and no matter how often you make the trip, every experience is uniquely wonderful. Don’t forget to lock in your Epic Pass before the next deadline on October 7.

Next up, WINTER!