It’s changeover day! The day that all the fashion press, buyers and models hop on the plane and head to Paris. Milan Fashion Week SS27 ended yesterday (September 27), and shows in the French capital have already started (LVMH prize-winner Julie Kegels kicked things off this afternoon, see here). But before we dive headfirst into the final stretch, first we must reflect on the shows that you might have missed in Italy. Sure, you saw Prada’s 63 skirts, but did you spot the platformed flip-flops at MM6? Or J Lo’s Peaky Blinders moment at Dolce & Gabbana? If the answer’s no, then read on! 

JIL SANDER

Simone Bellotti is finally getting his flowers at Jil Sander. Since taking on the role of creative director a year ago, the Italian designer has slowly gained more attention with each collection he’s shown. His SS27 offering was one of the highlights of Milan Fashion Week, and while Jil Sander used to be an underrated gem, Bellotti is putting it back on the map. This season he played with the concept of minimalism, showing clothes that looked simple on the surface, but up-close, revealed incredibly complex, detailed designs. Garments that fell effortlessly on the body, but were cleverly pinched, gathered and tucked to create each specific silhouette. 

FENDI 

Guests were encouraged to get into the spirit of the Fendi show by dancing on their way in. Celebrities including Rachel Zegler, Iris Law and Maisie Williams were all spotted letting loose in the show space, dancing to Italo classics before taking their seats. The space itself had been transformed into a giant, mirrored box – inspired by Italian sculptor Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di Specchi (cube of mirrors)– forcing the audience to stare back at themselves, while seeing warped glimpses of the collection. Matching the energy of the music, which blended Adriano Celentano’s “Prisencolinensinainciusol” with Raffaella Carrà’s “Rumore”, the collection was a mixed bag of unexpected pairings. Stilettos were styled with socks, baggy jeans paired with 18th century-style frock coats, and delicate camis with cheetah-print chokers. 

MM6 

MM6 is Maison Margiela’s playful, undone younger sibling. Next year, the diffusion line will mark its 30th anniversary, but just because it’s getting older doesn’t mean it’s lost any of its youthful, mischievous spirit. The show opened with two MM6 employees (dressed in their white lab coats) tearing open the paper entrance to the runway. The first look featured a pair of trousers transformed into a mini dress, with the zip left wide open, revealing the model’s bra. Then a shirt was worn as a dress; then a jacket worn as a skirt. Similar to the topsy-turvy design worlds of Hodakova or Zomer, MM6’s SS27 show decided to flip it and reverse it. The shoes were a highlight – a collaboration with Havaianas – platformed flip-flops were stacked mile-high with tiered foam soles, or cut to follow the shape of each toe. We can expect to see these on fashionable beaches next summer. 

ARMANI

It’s been just over a year since the late, great Giorgio Armani died, but the brand continues to do what it does best: sleek, sharp tailoring. Under the creative direction of Armani’s niece, Silvana Armani, this season she leaned into 80s silhouettes with dramatic shoulder pads on double-breasted suits, styled with nothing worn underneath. Despite the sleepy jazz soundtrack, it was a collection that shouted nightlife (or “Nightclubbing” as Grace Jones would put it). Elsewhere, a change is afoot at the brand’s more affordable sibling label, Emporio Armani. Rather than showing this season, the brand released a lookbook – closing one chapter with a neat and simple back-to-basics approach, before ushering in the new era. SS27 marks the last Emporio collection designed by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani, before former Versace designer Dario Vitale takes the reins next season. 

DOLCE & GABBANA 

You might recognise the picturesque Sicilian town of Taormina as the filming location of The White Lotus season two. While on a road trip around Sicily earlier this summer, I decided to visit Taormina (completely coincidentally) on the one day that Dolce & Gabbana had taken over the entire town. The huge, all-black D&G yacht bobbed around in the harbour, while Taormina itself was overflowing with models, all carrying a number tied around their waist. Inside the historic, 2000-year-old amphitheatre, the events team were busy setting up for that evening’s Alta Moda fashion show, featuring a performance from Jennifer Lopez. Then, last week, in Milan, Dolce & Gabbana transported us back to Sicily once again with its collection, STRAVAGANZA SICILIANA. J Lo returned too – spotted front row in a 1920s-style suit and flat-cap, an outfit that some compared to Cillian Murphy in Peaky Blinders. You might not assume that Birmingham and Sicily go hand in hand…only at Dolce & Gabbana. 

MAX MARA 

Something interesting is happening with Max Mara: gen Z are discovering it. It’s a brand that was founded over 70 years ago, known for its 90s minimalism and Phoebe Philo-level effortlessness. In 2026, it’s also a huge hit on sites like Vinted and Depop. While Max Mara never went away, it’s experiencing a sort of renaissance. Its newfound popularity with the next generation means that more eyes are on its shows, like the one the brand just presented at Milan Fashion Week, for example. This season, British designer Ian Griffiths honed in on one of the brand’s pillars, ‘utility luxe’, delivering a collection built on earthy, beige tones and military silhouettes. Waists were cinched with chunky leather belts, extra pockets were added to cotton gilets, and collars were all popped – standing to attention. Meanwhile, at Sportsmax (Max Mara’s younger, more experimental arm), this season was all about reflecting our current climate. Literally, it was a collection about heatwave dressing, since Europe (worryingly) experienced so many of them this summer. Sportsmax’s answer? Remove the sleeves from your coats! 

TOD’S 

Tod’s began as a shoe cobbler in 1920s Italy. Over 100 years later and its dedication to craftsmanship is as loyal as it was the day it opened its doors. The same can be said for its dedication to leather. Attention to detail is in the brand’s DNA, and for its SS27 show, Tod’s stayed true to its foundations, while adding a sporty edge. There was a masculine energy to the collection – boxy suit jackets paired with even boxier shorts – injected with coral, mustard and crimson colour blocking. The Tod’s SS27 woman is someone who plays tennis before a long day of being everyone’s boss. Much like Anna Wintour, who sat front row, while models Awar Odhiang and Mariacarla Boscono breezed past.