As Season 3 of HBO’s hit series hits screens, Wonderland sits down with Donni Davy to discuss her creative footprint and mood board for the show’s most beauty-forward chapter yet.

Some might describe Euphoria as one of television’s most classic cases of marmite, dividing the masses into equal parts die-hard fans and nose-twisting wannabe critics. As Sam Levinson’s first two seasons catapulted the show to full stardom as one of the biggest productions of our generation – earning pop culture-defining status in the process – its third, and rumoured final, instalment lands amid a tidal wave of internet discourse. But throughout the years since its release in 2019, one thing has remained consistently excellent and entirely unquestionable: its iconic makeup looks.

Layers of glitter (we know you tried to recreate those sparkly tears), explosions of colour, bedazzled applications and even better prosthetics… no spoilers for Season 3, but what a comfort it is knowing God’s most gifted remains intact in real life. That is all thanks to the work of head makeup artist Donni Davy. Through the toughest of times, the dirtiest parties (complimentary), the juiciest fights and sweetest love storylines, Davy’s beauty creations have survived the test of time, taking over our beauty boards to the panic of the clean girls.

The success was such that, on the very set where these looks were being created, Half Magic was born – the beauty brand she co-founded. And now, as Euphoria graces our screens once again, it also inaugurates a new chapter for Davy’s endeavours as a beauty mogul, launching an official collaboration between Half Magic and Euphoria, exclusively available at Sephora. “This collection is truly for Euphoria fans, which is why we wanted to give them a behind-the-scenes feel,” says Davy. “Every product developed was inspired by those used on set, so you can use similar shades to the ones seen on your favourite characters to reimagine the show’s iconic looks.”

As we ready ourselves for the final instalment of Season 3, we sit down with the beauty mastermind for a full rundown on all things Euphoria, her creative collaborations with the adored cast and crew, and the next steps for Half Magic. Keep scrolling…

What was your starting point for this season when it came to shaping the beauty language of Euphoria?
Sam [Levinson] wanted me to do my version of Hollywood glam, and this Season is some of the Glammiest Glam I’ve done on TV.  We also wanted to make sure the makeup was high-contrast.

What was on your mood board this time around – were there any unexpected references or departures from previous seasons?
The characters are out of high school now, so we’re out of the dreamy, electric dopamine makeup from Season 1 and the experimental element of Season 2. Their glam is purposeful and unapologetic to achieve a very specific outcome: money, success and/or fame. There are moments that call for [this level] of glam: body shimmer, sparkle and juicy lips… I was inspired by the 90’s and early 2000’s, especially for Cassie, who starts getting spray tans and dons Pam Anderson-style high contrast frosty lips.

How did it feel stepping back onto set with these characters, actors and crew? 
The Euphoria makeup trailer is legendary. We play fun music, there are birthday decorations everywhere, and the cabinets and walls are covered in film stills from the show. Our actors love it, but most importantly, it feels like a high vibe, creative and welcoming place for my team to work in every day. It’s chaotic, in the best way possible.

Makeup has become such a defining pillar of Euphoria. Looking back, how do you see your work influencing the visual identity of the show – and even beauty culture beyond it? 
I didn’t anticipate that it would take off like it did! I was completely shocked, but I think the reason Euphoria makeup became so popular is because the show was a sort of vehicle to bridge the gap between fantastical makeup and everyday life. People were used to seeing bold, colorful, and glittering makeup on the runway or in fashion at times, but not on TV. Seeing these looks on a group of relatable TV characters who were not lit for “beauty,” but who were instead portraying real life scenarios and really “living” in these makeup looks really helped to re-define this kind of makeup as accessible and totally wearable.

Did you feel more pressure coming into this new season? What shifted the most for you creatively or personally? 
I always feel pressure to give the fans what they want, but my true obligation is to the scripts. I look at what the girls are doing in their lives, what the mood is, where they’re living, what colors are around them, and what they are wearing to guide my design decisions. I’m hired to come into work each day to tell the story on the page, that Sam Levinson has written. Of course, I put my own aesthetic on it all, which very much involves sparkle and high contrast eye looks, but it has to exist within the world Sam has created, and his art is always evolving.

It seems like we’re finally done with the clean girl-obsession, and ready to have some fun again with makeup. Do you think it’s a coincidence a new season of Euphoria is dropping at the same time that’s happening? What are you most excited about the world of beauty right now? 
We’ve been in a clean-girl makeup trend for years now and it’s soul crushing to see everyone look the same. I’m inspired by non-conformist beauty and I’m glad shimmer and glitter is back. There are so many little things we can do with our makeup, hair and how we dress that can highlight our individual points of view and inspire others to break their own molds as well. I’m excited to see icons in pop culture wearing more makeup and being more dramatic with their looks. I’m hoping this leads to people in general starting to have a little more fun with their makeup.

When you receive the scripts, how much information do you have to start building the looks? And what does your creative dialogue with costume and the wider design team look like?
I look to the scripts for the literal story and moods of course, I talk to Sam about the aesthetic or vibe he thinks will complement the cinematography and the emotional tone of the show, for example: traditional film noir glamour, playful Y2K-inspired aesthetic, sparkling luminous almost-popstar looks for the girls in the Silver Slipper (as opposed to typical TV stripper makeup which can sometimes lean crude). I look to the costumes and Natasha Newman-Thomas for guidance on color palette, texture and mood, and then Kim and I come to the party at the last minute, for the cherry-on top. We kind of just vibe and sprinkle our magic.

How has Euphoria informed Half Magic, and how does the show continue to shape your signature aesthetic? 
Half Magic was created on the set of Euphoria but it’s not just for Euphoria fans so it continues to evolve over time. Most makeup brands create products that are designed with an editorial eye, to help you look good when the lighting is great. Half Magic comes from a different place. On set the lighting isn’t always great, sometimes it’s dark or there are lowlights and highlights. It’s lighting you find in real life, so we develop products that make you look great all the time. One thing we are really excited about this spring is the launch of our limited edition Euphoria x Half Magic Collection – a collection of nine products inspired by the most iconic beauty moments from the show. The packaging is finished in a deep metallic indigo and features stills pulled from memorable Euphoria scenes, quotes from the characters and my handwritten notes from the scripts. So much of my heart went into creating this collection. It’s truly for Euphoria fans.

What’s next for Half Magic and what’s your favourite part about working on your own beauty line? 
So much! We are constantly developing interesting new products that are truly innovative. I want Half Magic to dismantle the problematic and antiquated beauty and makeup standards that exist in our society, especially in regard to aging. Makeup is so amazing because even the most subtle wash of glitter or shimmer can completely change your mood – no matter what age you are!

The show walks a fine line between emotional heaviness and hyper-stylised aesthetic. How do you balance those darker themes with that glittering, colour-saturated finish?
Jules is a great example of this and has the most drastic change, both in style and colour palette in Season 3. Her immediate world is just so muted and quiet compared to how she is when we first meet her in Season 1. If we had picked up with her right after high school or during art school, I think the scripts would have called for her looks to be a lot more experimental but her colour palette is more traditional this season. Aside from being a classic sign of male desire, Jules’ recurring reddish lip and nails are meant to stand out in the shadowy cold atmosphere of her loft. In moments where she’s not with a Sugar Daddy, we see just a little bit of her old whimsy coming through, via iridescent periwinkle sparkly eyeshadow that twinkles in the low light. For these moments (wedding, first meeting with Rue) I used an upcoming new limited edition shade of Half Magic Beauty’s GLITTERPUCK PRESSED FAIRY DUST from our Euphoria x Half Magic Collection. This is my favorite shade yet of my best-selling glitter eyeshadow!!

Do you have a favourite character to design for, or one that consistently pushes you the most creatively? 
Some of my favourite makeup looks this season are on MAGICK, played by Rosalia, and KITTY, played by Anna Van Patten. You should keep massive eyes out for the sparkling, highly stylised looks that these characters wear.

We catch a glimpse of Rosalía in the trailer with a striking beauty look. What was it like collaborating with her, and how did you approach creating something that felt both her and Euphoria? 
I loved working with Rosalía and her looks are some of my favourites. We went feral with GLITTERPUCK in Cyber Diamond on her eyes and the way this sparkles makes me squeal. I also wanted to create a signature eyeliner style for Magick. I thought the rounded corners looked really beautiful on her outer eye, it’s kind of unexpected. At first, I thought a wing but then I thought, ‘let me think outside the box’. The high contrast filled waterline is an absolute must for this piercing eye look and you see loads of tight lined waterlines in Season 3 for this reason.

And finally – if this season had a single defining beauty moment, what would you want it to be?
This season is Feral Glam. It’s purposeful and unapologetic.

Words – Sofia Ferreira