Skin icing, or cryotherapy, has become a popular addition to rituals for better-looking skin, but at what point in your routine should you try it? For instance, should you ice your face before or after applying skincare products? And how often do experts recommend icing your skin? To get the 411 on all of the “ice on face” benefits, we called on three beauty experts to explain the rising phenomenon and how to properly incorporate it into your skincare routine.

What Is Skin Icing?

Skin icing is a cryotherapy treatment in which the skin is exposed to extremely cold temperatures for several minutes. It is said to have various skincare benefits, including calming redness and inflammation, exfoliation, and blemish control. When ice—or very cold water—is applied to the skin, blood rises to the surface, soothing and tightening the skin.

Benefits

• Reduce inflammation: “Think about when you have an injury or swelling in the body, and your doctor instructs you to ice it—it’s the same concept, but now we’re using it for aesthetic purposes,” explains Marino. “Many people who suffer from inflammatory skin conditions like acne and rosacea can benefit from cold therapy because of its ability to reduce the inflammation of the skin, which is a key trigger to both conditions.”
• Reduces pore size: Skin icing minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores and may help unclog pores caused by debris and excess sebum. Icing tones the face, making your skin look smoother.
• Exfoliates the skin: “A cryofacial can help remove the outer layer of dead skin cells and stimulate new ones underneath to grow in a more even, smooth distribution,” notes King.
• Soothes blemishes: Ice can help reduce the swelling and redness of pimples and soothe irritated skin. Because swollen skin makes it difficult for topical creams to reach the bacteria inside the pores, icing may help antibacterial agents and topical antibiotics get into the pores.
• Reduces pigmentation: “When our melanocytes (the cells in our skin responsible for producing pigmentation) are exposed to some sort of trauma, such as physical damage to the skin or even heat, it releases pigmentation in our skin cells,” says Pipala. “Icing the skin will help calm that response down.”
• Encourages lymphatic drainage: Ice facials “help decrease puffiness, cooling and tightening the skin,” says Pipala. “If done with an ice roller, it can also double up as lymphatic draining, which helps to remove excess fluid and toxins in the face.”

How to Prepare

To prep the skin for an ice facial, King recommends gently cleansing the skin and applying a moisturizer to help protect the skin barrier. It’s also best to avoid sun exposure before treating your skin to avoid sunburns and irritation throughout the treatment. Finally, Marino says to always ensure that your skin and the roller are clean before use.

What to Expect

The most basic form of skin icing is using an ice cube to reduce under-eye or facial puffiness, but there are many approaches to cryotherapy. “They can be as simple as using at-home ice globes once or twice daily over the entire face,” Pipala says.

But if you’re looking for professional treatments, Pipala recommends the Glacial Rx treatment, which is “done in a more clinical setting and can help calm inflamed skin, whether acne or varying types of pigmentation.”

Another type of ice facial is when vaporized nitrogen is used to cool the face, scalp, and neck. “Liquid nitrogen (around -200 degrees Celsius) vaporizes (is no longer as cold) and is pumped out of a hose and onto your skin,” says King. “The hose is moved quickly over the face and held far enough away that it won’t freeze-burn the skin.” And, contrary to what you might think, a professional ice facial doesn’t feel unbearably cold, according to King. “It feels more like a cool stream of air, but it will feel colder as the treatment progresses,” she says, noting that the treatment is usually around 10 minutes long.

Potential Side Effects

Cryotherapy can cause more harm than good if not done properly. “It’s important to have it done by a well-trained professional to avoid possible risks like burns, frostbite, and nerve damage,” King warns. “It’s also safer for paler skin, as it can create discoloration in those with tanned or darker skin.” Though it’s safe for most skin types, King says to be cautious if you have sensitive skin or skin that reacts to changes in temperature—for example, rosacea and cold urticaria (hives).

The Cost

The facial typically costs between $50 to $150 depending on where you get it done, but there are at-home kits so you can DIY that range in price.

For example, Sio Beauty’s Cryodrop comes with a hefty price tag but is made with medical-grade steel, comes with a lifetime magnetic charge, and instantly lifts saggy skin and sculpts the face. At the other end of the spectrum is Skin Gym’s Ice Coolie Ice Therapy Device, which is made out of stainless steel and induces a radiant glow to much-needed skin at a more affordable price. Pipala says that the Glacial Rx treatment can vary from $20 to $200, “depending on the intensity of the treatment and the type of results one is looking for.” 

Aftercare

As your skin heals, it’s important to treat it with a little TLC. King says to steer clear of chemical or physical exfoliation and other active ingredients that could potentially be irritating (think retinoids or benzoyl peroxide) and instead stick to gentle cleansers and warm water. Finally, as always, lather on an SPF of at least 30 if you’ll be outside.

The Final Takeaway

Cold therapy tools are noted for reducing inflammation, redness, and puffiness, stimulating circulation, and helping to sculpt the face. The cold temperature can constrict blood vessels, decreasing puffiness, but such tools should be used with caution so as not to burn the skin.

“Ice facials are honestly best for all skin types,” says Pipala. Unless you have an active medical condition such as eczema or psoriasis, I would consult with your physician. But other than that, this is great for all skin types, from acne-prone to sensitive. It works for everyone.”