Start With Unwashed Hair

Start with second- or third-day hair, which is easier to grip and style than freshly washed hair. If your hair is naturally wavy or curly—even better. “It’s easier if your hair has a little texture or wave to it,” says Marjan. “If not, you might want to add a wave first.” Straight-haired types can add texture with a curling iron like Drybar’s The Mixologist Interchangeable Styling Iron.

DelBene agrees, adding that it can be done on freshly washed hair, but the end result may look different. “This style can be done on fresh clean hair, two or three-day old hair, or styled/curled hair! All of the options can create different outcomes to achieve different looks,” explains DelBene.

Smooth Hair Into a Side Ponytail

To create a single fishtail braid, part your hair to one side and gather it into a ponytail. This will allow the fishtail braid to drape over your shoulder in a romantic bohemian way once it’s complete. (A bonus: working on the side of your head allows you to see your handiwork in a mirror.)

Split the Ponytail Into Two Equal Sections

For maximum control, secure your pony with a hair tie close to your scalp. This is helpful while you learn the ropes of the style. For a messier-looking braid, skip the hair tie. Then, split your ponytail into two equal sections.

DelBene says that if you want to braid all of your hair, start with your hair in one ponytail and then split the hair into two equal sections. If you only want to braid part of your hair, split the hair where you want it to start and then form two sections from that part of your hair.

Cross Small Pieces of Hair Over the Center

“Take a small piece from the outside of one section and add it to the inside of your other section,” says Marjan. “Then, take a small piece from the outside of the other section; add it to the inside of your other section.”

Each piece will fall into the center (the break between the two sections of hair), then you’ll grab it and take it over to one side. The smaller the pieces are that you grab from the outside of your ponies, the tighter and more elaborate your finished braid will look.

Keep Crisscrossing Down the Braid

Continue the pattern down the length of the hair. (Yes, it’s a bit tedious, but worth it in the end). And don’t worry if it looks imperfect—embrace a certain level of messiness. “I think messy fishtail braids look better when there’s a little bit of fuzzy texture,” Marjan says.

For Texture, Brush Up the Braid With a Fine-Toothed Comb

Although you’ve finished the braiding part, you’re not done yet; this style isn’t complete without some tweaks for texture and volume.

Hold the tail of your braid in one hand, and with the other hand, use a fine-toothed comb to brush up the braid. Start at the bottom, ratting the tail, then lightly brush up the length of the braid in short strokes.

DelBene says you can achieve a similar look with boar bristle brush as well. Simply comb up the braid lightly to create soft messy wisps.

Tie the End With a Clear Elastic

For the most modern look, don’t braid to the ends of your hair. “I suggest leaving about a third of the length of the hair at the end, so you have room to pull it apart once you’re done,” Marjan says.

Once you’ve decided how much room to leave, secure your fishtail braid with a small, clear elastic to keep the focus on your style. BLAX Snag-Free Hair Elastics are a hairstylist favorite.

For a Relaxed Look, Pull To Loosen the Braid

“[Use your] fingers and gently pull it apart from the bottom up,” says Marjan. “Grab a little bit of hair from the outside of the braid…gently pinching and pulling it up.” If some pieces of hair have escaped your fishtail braid during this process, leave them free. For an ultra-textured finish, you may pull a few pieces at the top.

“My favorite part of a fishtail is making it that super boho, sexy, messy braid we love it to be,” shares DelBene. He calls this process “pancaking” the braid, which he describes as “starting at the bottom, pull the outer edges of the braid out and separate the braid to give it a loose effortless look.” DelBene says you can pull as much or as little as you want to create as much drama as desired. “I personally love pulling it out a lot,” shares DelBene.

Finish With Hairspray

Set it with a spritz of finishing spray and your textured fishtail braid is good to go.

Once the braid is to your liking, DelBene recommends quickly styling any pieces that may have come loose. “Feel free to add a soft curl to those face frames that might’ve fallen out,” he explains.