There’s a lot of gray area when it comes to how you’re “supposed” to do your makeup. Sure, there’s plenty of lore around face shape and eye color, but the only real rule is that makeup is individual (and entirely up to your personal preference).

That being said, there are certainly a few guidelines to experiment with if you have no idea where to begin. Take the “high-contrast makeup theory,” for example. This makeup trend maps out how to enhance your natural features using a customizable contrast filter to create a soft, glowy glam. And, it’s not as confusing as it seems! Once you learn your contrast, it’s all about tinkering with your makeup to balance the difference between your hair, skin, and eye color.

It’s certainly not an end-all-be-all guide, but it’s worth looking into if you’re feeling like switching things up. Ahead, everything we know about the trend.

What Is The Contrast Makeup Trend?

Contrast has to do with differentiating light. For example, a high-contrast image will have bright highlights and dark shadows. It’s a common tool used in photography, but French makeup artist Aliénor (@alieenor) changed the game when she introduced her contrast makeup theory on social media. “It’s the difference in value between your face, eyes, eyebrows, and hair,” she explains in a video. You find that contrast level, and then craft your makeup routine around it.

The creator shared a black-and-white filter for users to experiment with finding their contrast level based on three skin tones and three levels of contrast. Each contrast level shows a side-by-side comparison of where shadows, brightness, and color differentiate on the face. (So, if you were blonde and had fair skin and light eyes, you’d be considered low contrast.)

According to Ailénor, the contrast guide can apply across all skin tones. When using Beyoncé as an example in a video, she says: “The difference between the hair and her skin isn’t very intense, so she’s low contrast.” On the other hand, someone like Zoë Kravitz has a high contrast because her “eyes, eyebrows, and hair are very much darker than skin tone.”

The trend encourages testing the filter and trying out the makeup artist’s tips on how to balance contrast using different techniques (like wearing a red lip, for example). The best part? It doesn’t necessarily require purchasing new products—a rarity when it comes to social media beauty trends.

Ailénor reiterates that the trend is meant to make you feel more confident in how makeup can enhance your features, and creators on the app are falling in love with how slightly changing your routine can alter your end results entirely. Remember: This is a starting point if you’re bored in your routine or brand new to makeup—it’s not a steadfast rule to live and die by.

Low Contrast Makeup

If you are considered “low contrast,” that means “the difference of value is very low between the hair the eyes and the skin. (Essentially, the contrast between the skin tone and other features of the face, such as hair and eye color, is not very extreme.) “Everything is in the same greyscale,” Aliénor explains in her video. “So it’s very soft and ethereal, and not very strong.”

Aileenor recommends the no-makeup makeup trend for those with low contrast and points out Elle Fanning as an example.

“It doesn’t mean you can’t wear a lot of makeup,” she says “It just means that it’s going to have another effect.” In short, Aileenor is suggesting that subtle makeup appears more natural-looking on low-contrast faces.

TikTok creator @rachellldaguanno made a video of herself trying the trend, which included light makeup with very little contour or blush and just a swipe of mascara and lip gloss. Since the contrast between her hair, skin, and eyes is low (they’re all a similar tone) she opted for a pared-back approach to keep her contrast low.

High Contrast Makeup

A high contrast face, as Ailénor explains it, is when the features of your face have different values. Think about very light skin and very dark hair. “What it does is draw attention to the face and it can be a bit harsh. You can change your makeup accordingly to soften the contrast,” she says.

Smoky eyes, dark and intense red lipstick, and the Italian siren trend are all looks that the makeup artist recommends for someone with high contrast. “Basically, you want to add back intensity,” she notes. “But you can also do this in a softer way, like using a medium-intensity red lip and cheek” or by applying a “softer” smoky eye. Emily Ratajkowski’s signature smoky glam is a great example.

Medium Contrast Makeup

“When you have a medium contrast it means you have a bit of difference between the face and the hair. Sometimes you have to add a bit of intensity to make it look more natural,” says Ailénor.

A fail-safe way to balance contrast for those in the medium category is a “very good lipstick in the right intensity,” she says, pointing out pink and rosy shades. “It doesn’t have to be very saturated, but a bit more intense.”

Aliénor considers herself in this contrast, noting that nude lipsticks made her feel like a “ghost.” To complement the lightly colored lip, she recommends adding a similar blush shade lightly across the cheeks.

She uses a photo of Zendaya as an example in her collage of medium contrast inspiration. For the specific occasion, the actress opted for an ultra-glowy base with a subtle bronzy eyeshadow and a rosy pink lip. “If you have particularly dark eyes, you can add some more intensity on the eyes so the contrast between your eyes and skin tone is lessened,” she says. “A subtle smoky eye is also a great option.”

Creator @tahiyabby tried the trend using a flush of pink blush and bronzer around the eyes and cheeks complete with a subtle brown winged eyeliner for a medium contrast makeup look. In another video, Tahiya adds that she might “never go back” after trying the trend. “This is such a flattering look on my features,” she says “This might actually be going into the rotation.”