One thing about us: we’re going to want to know everything about the latest and greatest skincare and haircare ingredients. So, when a certain ingredient shows promise in both areas, our interest is even more piqued. And that’s exactly what happened when prickly pear hit the scene. We were already fans of the ingredient added to our go-to margarita, but turns out she’s that girl when it comes to beauty routines, too.

“Due to its fatty acid contents, prickly pear is a great moisturizer for skin and hair,” says cosmetic chemist Ginger King. And it also tends to be a team player, making prickly pear a nice addition to most formulations. Because of its easy temperament, you’ve likely used a product with the cactus derivative without even knowing it! For more on its incredible soothing and moisturizing properties, we asked King, along with dermatologist Ava Shamban, to share their expert thoughts on prickly pear as a skincare and haircare ingredient.

What Is Prickly Pear?

Prickly pear is a type of flowering cactus, sometimes referred to as Opuntia, native to the South West United States and Mexico, explains Dr. Shamban. It’s also found on the Galapagos Islands, and is commonly used in Mexican cuisine, referred to as Nopales (Spanish for Opuntia cacti).  “It is considered both a fruit for sweetness and a vegetable for nutrition,” adds King.

But it’s not just for admiring its beauty and ingesting, prickly pear is “pretty ‘super’ [while not technically a super food], with a plethora of benefits for both skin and hair,” points out Dr. Shamban. Specifically, the seed inside the prickly pear is often cold-pressed for oil, and the cactus pad can be extracted for beauty use, explains King.

What Are the Benefits?

As an ingredient, prickly pear is known for its ability to moisturize, soothe, and protect. And while there is some overlap between the skincare and haircare categories, prickly pear is being used in different formulations for each. Here’s an overview: “High in antioxidants, prickly pear seed oil can protect all skin (including scalp) and hair fibers from free radical damage and oxidative stresses related to UV and other environmental particulates as well as aging,” explains Dr. Shamban. Below, we break down the specific benefits for skin vs. hair.

Prickly Pear for Skin

In skincare, prickly pear can moisturize, correct, support cell turnover, and ease inflammation or irritation, says Dr. Shamban. Thanks to its soothing effects, King likes to incorporate prickly pear into more potent and often more irritating formulations. “If a formula has a high level of acids, I love to put some prickly pear extract to minimize the stinging effect from the acids.”

“Prickly pear extract or seed oil is full of nourishing vitamin E and polyunsaturated fatty acids, which play a role in further protecting against environmental damage,” explains Dr. Shamban, making it an antioxidant. In the same vein, prickly pear is considered a good source of vitamin C, which is well-known for its skin-brightening benefits.

But that’s not all. Prickly pear makes a great anti-ager, too, because of its rich omega fatty acid content, which aids in boosting collagen, while its high levels of vitamin K can contribute to skin elasticity support, says Dr. Shamban. And it’s a great addition to an acne routine as well because it’s anti-bacterial, so it supports acne healing, prevents future blemishes and breakouts, and can soothe any accompanying redness and irritation that come with a breakout. 

Prickly Pear for Hair

Prickly pear is an ideal ingredient for hair products that moisturize, protect, and smooth while reducing frizz, says Dr. Shamban. Because of its omega fatty acids, it helps to condition the hair for smoother, glossier strands. “Plus, prickly pear has complex carbohydrate molecules called polysaccharides that can help to restructure hair strands,” furthers Dr. Shamban.” These act like humectants, holding and creating a moisture barrier by forming a film to cover the keratin, preventing the cuticle from opening and swelling, which is the process behind frizzing.”

In short, prickly pear not only boosts shine and smooths the cuticle for smoother, healthier-looking hair, but it also conditions and penetrates the strand for healthier hair all around. Prickly pear’s anti-inflammatory properties are also huge for scalp health, as a soothed, mild environment for the scalp is what is needed for healthy follicles and hair growth.

Potential Side Effects

For the most part, King says that prickly pear is”well tolerated and pretty safe for most skin types.” This is another reason why it’s found in so many formulations– it’s mild and very tolerable. Dr. Shamban points out that prickly pear can be particularly good for those who are truly sensitive, have dry skin, or even those with eczema. “However, as with all natural botanicals, there can be an atopic reaction, allergy, or irritation, so patch testing when using the ingredient directly on the skin is recommended,” she adds.

How to Use

King says that you can use prickly pear alone as a concentrated oil, or you can add a few drops into your current creams and lotions to supercharge its effects. “When looking for prickly pear in a daily use product, a serum, essence, face oil, or lotion is ideal,” says Dr. Shamban. You may even find it in a sunscreen, like Eminence Organic Daily Defense Tinted SPF 50, which makes for a great addition to an SPF formulation, thanks to prickly pear’s antioxidant benefits. In haircare, you can often find the ingredient showcased in shampoos, conditioners, serums, hydrating masks, or targeted scalp treatments. 

Our Favorite Prickly Pear Products

Youth to the People Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Oil

$49

$37 at Amazon

Glow Recipe Prickly Pear Peptide Mucin Serum

$32 at Sephora

Dae Prickly Pear Hair Oil

$38

$31 at Amazon

Christophe Robin Regenerating Mask

$72

$51 at Amazon

The Final Takeaway

Prickly pear is an extremely versatile ingredient and lends itself to many formulations, including in haircare and skincare. It’s extremely well-tolerated, so there’s really no reason that someone shouldn’t incorporate prickly pear into their routine. Whether you have dry or sensitive, aging, or acne-prone skin, prickly pear is the multi-hyphenate ingredient that proves to have a slew of benefits for each concern. It can help encourage healthy hair growth while nourishing your strands, leaving hair with a smooth, shiny look and feel. If you haven’t already started, now would be a good time to stock up on some prickly pear products, or simply add its oil to the products that are already in your routine.