What Is the LOC Method?

“The LOC method is a moisturizing hair ritual. LOC stands for the different products to use: A leave-in, oil, and cream. These three represent the steps to hydrate naturally wavy, curly, or coily hair after the hair has been cleansed,” says celebrity hairstylist, Takisha Sturdivant-Drew.

This little abbreviation comes from Liquid/Leave-In Conditioner, Oil, and Cream, in that order. Any deviation in product lineup will automatically disqualify your routine from being considered LOC. The LOC method carefully considers how to layer products in a way that maximizes moisture retention. In the same way skincare uses toner to deliver that initial layer of hydration before heavier moisturizing substances are applied, hair care does the same with liquid and leave-in conditioner before oil and cream seal the deal.

The term “liquid” in the LOC method generally refers to water or a conditioning hair spray that uses water as a base. Leave-in conditioners are typically also water-based and can range in texture, feeling watery, milky, creamy, foamy, whipped, or like a lightweight custard or pudding.

The term oil in the LOC method is just that—an oil. The beauty of an oil is that it can create a layer around the hair shaft that prevents water from escaping, which in turn helps hair to stay moisturized for longer periods of time. Creams do a similar job, but as the last step in the LOC method, they are meant to be the heaviest in the bunch. Whether your hair prefers a thick moisturizer that is like a smoothie or butter, this final step ensures hair has retained as much hydration as it can on the hair shaft.

What Hair Type Does the LOC Method Work For?

According to Sturdivant-Drew, the LOC method works best for those with wavy, curly, and coily hair. The LOC method is best when applied on dry hair that struggles to retain moisture. This is typically seen in high porosity hair types that are on the curly, coily, and kinky side—which sometimes feel perpetually thirsty. These textures with low porosity are also a fit for the LOC method, but they may require a different approach since these hair types take longer to saturate or absorb product due to their compact cuticles.

Although porosity plays a major role in whether or not the LOC method will work for you, it is still an effective tactic for treating hair regardless of curl pattern, density, and whether or not the hair is chemically-processed (including hair coloring).

Hair textures that have loose curls or waves can endure limpness and a greasy appearance as well as product buildup if not careful. The same is true with straight hair types (or type 1 hair). However, if you fall into this category and want to give the LOC method a try, you can do so. You just need to use products that are the lightest weight possible.

Below is a quick and easy cheat sheet that can help you figure out your hair type.

Type 1: This hair is straight in texture and falls closest to the head. This type can range from silky and fine to coarse and thick. It can also be prone to excess oil buildup.

Type 2: This hair is wavy in texture with a defined S-pattern. These tresses lay closer to the head and can range from fine to coarse.

Type 3: This hair is curly in texture with a springy pattern that can either be loose or tightly compact. These tresses tend to grow away from the head and have a natural sheen but are also prone to frizz.

Type 4: This hair is extra coily in texture with a Z-pattern that is commonly referred to as afro or kinky. These tresses grow away from the head and are the most delicate, dry, and prone to both frizz and shrinkage. It can range from soft and fine to coarse and wiry.

How to Do the LOC Method

Step 1: Liquid/Leave-in-Conditioner

Section out your hair and wet it with water if it is completely dry. This is much easier to do if you have a spray bottle and sectioning hair clips in hand.

Proceed with your desired leave-in conditioner and apply it evenly throughout each section from root to tip. Make sure to give extra love to the ends of your hair, since these are the oldest and driest. A water-based conditioner will provide the moisture that freshly cleansed hair desperately needs.

The amount of conditioner you should use will be determined by the length and thickness of your hair.

Step 2: Oil

Once you’ve slathered your hair in conditioner, you are ready for the hair oil. You shouldn’t be as generous as you were in the previous step. Make sure to only apply a thin layer of oil to lock moisture, but don’t be excessive to the point that your hair looks weighed down and greasy. To avoid this, you can apply small amounts to each section and slowly add more when you feel you need it.

Hair oils that are formulated with emulsifiers are ideal for this step because it means the oil will mix with water and deliver moisture instead of just sitting on top of the hair shaft like normal oils do.

Step 3: Cream

When your hair is adequately conditioned and oiled, you are ready for the final step in the LOC method, which involves using a creamy or butter-based moisturizer for sealing. For each section, you will apply the amount you feel is most appropriate for your hair condition. You can build up your application slowly but surely, and the end result should give you hair that is hydrated, defined in texture, and can hold out for a few days.

Does the LOC Method Really Work?

The LOC method works, but you may not see instant results the first time you try it. “It all depends on the state of the persons hair,” says Sturdivant-Drew. If your hair is dry and damaged, it’s going to take more time to see the results you’re looking for.

You can do the LOC method every time you attempt your wash-and-go. Go as little or as long as you like between showers—to a point. You shouldn’t have your hair-washing sessions more than two weeks apart or you’ll risk severe product buildup.

When implementing any new routine into your hair regimen, it is advised that you give it more than one shot before you toss it aside in the “does not work” pile. For this reason, you should give the LOC method a try for at least three wash sessions to determine whether it is right for you.

Extra Considerations

There are a few more things you should keep in mind if you are struggling with the LOC method.

Water quality: Depending on where you live, your plumbing may use hard water—which is a beauty nightmare because these minerals interfere with the effectiveness of your hair products. To remedy this, you might need to purchase a purifying water filter like Afina’s A-01 Filtered Shower Head.

Getting enough water: If you are not using leave-in conditioners that are water-based, you risk missing out on essential moisture. Make sure to read the label on your leave-in to get an idea of how much water is in it. If water is not listed in the first five ingredients on the list, then your leave-in won’t have a water content high enough to quench your thirsty strands.

Sectioning your hair: Although it might feel like you applied enough product to your hair, you might have missed a few parts if you didn’t section enough. Make sure you divide your hair into four sections and section those out further to ensure you’ve adequately covered your head.

Wearing the right style: Hair that is worn down looks pretty, but it’s also prone to moisture loss at a faster rate than hair that is worn in a protective style. Opt for buns, braids, twists, wigs, and any other protective style your heart desires to get the most out of your LOC method.

The LOC Method vs. the LCO Method

If you’ve spent any time on natural hair YouTube channels, you might have come across something called the LCO method, which is “the layering of leave-in conditioner, then cream, then oil to style curly/coily hair,” says Hardges.

People who like the LCO method like to have some extra hydration and moisture from the cream product, and then since the oil comes last, it “seals” in all the good stuff. If you have incredibly thick, coiled, kinky, and dry hair, you might benefit more from the LCO method, as that extra layer of moisture from your cream product and then sealing it off with oil can help with moisture retention. Low-porosity hair tends to do better under the LCO method.