Hellenist Paris Les Bras de Morphée

Hellenist Paris is new to the fragrance scene. The Greek-inspired French house launched in July 2024, and its offerings are quickly becoming some of the most sought-after scents. The saleswoman at Printemps Paris said Hellenist is the “next big name” in perfume, and while it’s rare to find the brand in the U.S., the shops that do carry the line—namely Stele and Printemps NYC—tell me they sell out almost immediately. I sniffed hundreds of perfumes in Paris (no exaggeration), yet this was the only potion that made me stop dead in my tracks. 

Les Bras de Morphée is one of the most enchanting scents I’ve ever had the pleasure of smelling. I feel like a mystical forest fairy wandering through the foliage at sunrise when I wear this. It starts green and dewy with hints of violet leaf, heliotrope, and peach. As it wears, orris and violet give the scent a delicate powdery facet that’s subtly sweetened with hazelwood. The dry down wraps you in a dreamy, soft haze of vanilla, tonka bean, and cashmeran, emitting a coziness that feels like a hug from a lover. I don’t necessarily believe in signature scents, but this is hands down the most-worn perfume in my collection, and I’ve already gone through half a bottle in just three months.

Premiere Note Aura Tonka

I only brought home two perfumes after sniffing my way through Paris: The above Hellenist scent and this beauty from Premiere Note. Gourmands have long dominated the fragrance space, but Aura Tonka isn’t your typical gourmand. In my opinion, it completely reimagines the category, and I’m confident that those who don’t enjoy sweet scents will fall in love with this. 

Instead of smelling excessively sugary and heavy, this has an airy, luminous quality to it that reminds me of enjoying an almond fruit tart while watching the most awe-inspiring sunset. Bitter almond and a mix of bright citrus radiate at the first spritz before lavender, toffee, and jasmine swirl together for an effervescent candied aroma. This gets deeper and more sensual as it settles, with a heady mix of tonka, praline, vanilla, sandalwood, and—my favorite—orris.

Ormaie Paris 18-12

Ormaie Paris bottles are easily among the most recognizable of all the niche perfume brands. The sculpturesque flacons—which feature geometric wooden caps in vibrant colors—can easily double as mini works of art. But it’s the ethically-sourced, beautifully blended juice inside that makes them truly noteworthy. 

18-12, the newest addition to the house’s lineup, feels carefree, sophisticated, youthful, and elegant all at the same time. Sweet lychee intertwines with rose petals and bergamot for a cheerful opening before turning flirty and seductive with rich cherries, almonds, and a bouquet of candied florals. Spun sugar, vanilla, and sandalwood—a winning trifecta of sweet, creamy notes—emerge on the dry down, along with sage, for a refined finish. 

Matiere Premiere Neroli Oranger

Although Matiere Premiere has become pretty mainstream in France—it has a very large section on Printemps Paris’ fragrance floor and a flagship on rue Saint-Honoré—it’s still considered a niche house, especially in the U.S. The brand’s founder, Aurélien Guichard, takes a very simple approach to crafting each elixir, focusing on one hero note and enhancing the aroma. Most of the raw ingredients Matiere Premiere uses are grown on his family’s farm in Grasse, too.

Vanilla Powder, Crystal Saffron, and Parisian Musc have all, respectively, gone viral on TikTok, but Neroli Oranger deserves its shining moment. This delightful summertime scent is the closest thing you’ll get to pure orange blossoms. Different distillation processes allow Guichard to utilize multiple parts of the bitter orange tree, specifically Neroli and orange blossoms. The former, which smells green and citrusy, is the essential oil extracted from the blooms, while the blossoms themselves smell warm, rich, and honeyed. Combined with a hint of bergamot, a touch of ylang-ylang, and a dash of musk, the resulting bright, sweet, and vaguely soapy aroma transports you to a romantic seaside getaway in the south of France.

Les Eaux Primordiales Ambre Superfluide

Amber, musk, vanilla, and benzoin are foundational notes in thousands of perfumes. Still, this captivating fragrance is unlike anything I’ve ever smelled before. That’s not an uncommon reaction to any of the scents Les Eaux Primordiales founder, Arnaud Poulain, produces. Each perfume he crafts is inspired by visual memories. From there, he lets his imagination run wild to concoct the most sublime, dream-like scents.

Ambre Superfluide evokes feelings of lavish winters spent by the fireside. Picture vintage oak floors, velvet furniture, the waft of cigar smoke in the air, and sipping expensive whiskey out of good crystal. Cinnamon, honey, and apple replicate the aroma of spiked cider, while a touch of sesame adds an unexpected creaminess. Balsam fir, cardamom, and rose create an intimate coziness before things get warmer with an inviting blend of tobacco, spicy rum, rich black vanilla, and musk.

D’Orsay Parfums Sur Tes Lèvres E.Q.

The epitome of French heritage, D’Orsay Parfums has been around for nearly 200 years. Every scent in the collection—which went through a bit of a rebrand in 2015—is meant to elicit different feelings of love, like when you find yourself first falling in love, that memorable embrace after time spent apart, and slow mornings spent with your significant other.

Sur Tes Levres E.Q., in particular, is said to smell like finding your soulmate. Regardless of your interpretation, it does smell uniquely French: Effortless, polished, soft. The musky floral scent commands attention with sharp pink pepper and resinous amber. Iris and jasmine then form a nuanced, powdery sweetness before warming up courtesy of cashmeran and patchouli.

Chambre52 Tobacco Memories

Much like Hellenist, Chambre52 is a fledgling fragrance brand with a ton of potential. After only launching a year ago, Tobacco Memories won a 2025 French Fragrance Foundation Award for Best Niche Fragrance—and it’s easy to understand why. The bold perfume instantly garners attention by combining strong notes, including saffron, cherry, incense, and its namesake, tobacco. But instead of causing whiplash, this enveloping perfume oozes finesse. The initial metallic-like burst of saffron quickly melts away as sexy, juicy cherry and earthy iris come to the forefront. As the hours pass, this becomes more seductive with a smoky, sweet blend of tobacco, vanilla, and oakmoss.