{"id":692602,"date":"2025-11-14T14:33:41","date_gmt":"2025-11-14T11:33:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=692602"},"modified":"2025-11-14T14:33:41","modified_gmt":"2025-11-14T11:33:41","slug":"brontez-purnell-on-the-rise-of-telfar-clemens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=692602","title":{"rendered":"Brontez Purnell on the rise of Telfar Clemens"},"content":{"rendered":"<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/fashion\/article\/69077\/1\/brontez-purnell-telfar-clemens-paradigm-shift-exhibition-180-strand-london\" data-article-id=\"69077\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-landscape-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img has-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.45\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, New Models still\" class=\"img\" height=\"2063\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1429274-1.jpg\" width=\"3000\" title=\"1429274-1\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"inner\"><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy and <span class=\"nowrap\">\u00a9 TELFAR<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><span class=\"month\">November<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"14\">14,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2025<\/span><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/feature\">Feature<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>Brontez Purnell on the rise of <span class=\"nowrap\">Telfar Clemens<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>As Telfar TV takes over at London&#8217;s Paradigm Shift exhibition, acclaimed writer Brontez Purnell charts their friendship and Clemens\u2019 <span class=\"nowrap\">enduring influence<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><span class=\"month\">November<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"14\">14,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2025<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/feature\">Feature<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/BrontezPurnell\">Brontez Purnell<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<aside class=\"primary\">\n<div class=\"sticky bottom\">\n<div class=\"read-more\"><span class=\"read-more-header\">Read More<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-items\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-film-tv\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/69074\/1\/fruits-of-her-labour-working-women-on-screen-films-feminism\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Clockwatchers, 1997\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430656-2.jpg\" title=\"1430656-2\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\">Film &amp; TV<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/69074\/1\/fruits-of-her-labour-working-women-on-screen-films-feminism\"><span class=\"title\">Fruits of her labour: 5 cult films about women at work<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-life-culture\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\/article\/68795\/1\/is-inconvenience-the-cost-of-community-friendship-relationships-loneliness\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"everything_i_know_about_love\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1425831-3.jpg\" title=\"1425831-3\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\">Life &amp; Culture<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\/article\/68795\/1\/is-inconvenience-the-cost-of-community-friendship-relationships-loneliness\"><span class=\"title\">Is inconvenience the cost of community?<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-art-photography\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/art-photography\/article\/68886\/1\/tag-club-chengdu-queer-china-clubbing-techno-photography-portraits\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Julien Tell, .TAG\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1428052-10.jpg\" title=\"1428052-10\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/art-photography\">Art &amp; Photography<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/art-photography\/article\/68886\/1\/tag-club-chengdu-queer-china-clubbing-techno-photography-portraits\"><span class=\"title\">Final photos from Chengdu\u2019s queer club in the sky<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-6-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Telfar, Paradigm Shift<\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/0\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"1026\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430680.jpeg\" width=\"1539\" title=\"1430680\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/1\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"1170\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430681.jpeg\" width=\"1755\" title=\"1430681\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/2\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430682.jpeg\" width=\"3000\" title=\"1430682\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/3\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"858\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430683.jpeg\" width=\"1287\" title=\"1430683\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/4\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430684.jpeg\" width=\"3000\" title=\"1430684\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/36311\/5\/telfar-paradigm-shift\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, New Models still\" class=\"img\" height=\"1958\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1429274-2.jpg\" width=\"2937\" title=\"1429274-2\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 6 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>I met <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/telfar\">Telfar Clemens<\/a> in 2003 (or 2004?) at an 18+ Hip Hop party in the Soma District of San Francisco \u2013\u00a0 I\u2019m so old that I went to 18+ <\/span><em><span>HIP HOP PARTIES IN SOMA IN THE EARLY 2000s<\/span><\/em><span> (something that would be virtually unheard of these days). I forget the name of the party but the vibe was like if the Papi Juice party was more ratchet and had more fist fights on the dance floor. Like, <\/span><em><span>it was beautiful<\/span><\/em><span>, but I digress.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>I remember seeing him on the dance floor for the first time and I was like, \u201cIs this dude a model?\u201d \u2019Cause like, I don\u2019t know, San Francisco was always such an anti-fashion city (still is), and I remember him dressed in like speciality denim, cowboy boots, a scarf, a felt cowboy hat and skinny suspenders. In a town where we all just wore like, Vans, ripped jeans and band t-shirts, he looked like a hipster version of an 1800s French-Canadian fur trapper (a full decade before every hipster lifted this look), and I was like, \u201cOh, he\u2019s like <\/span><em><span>elevated<\/span><\/em><span>\u201d; and so, in fact <\/span><em><span>was<\/span><\/em><span> a model. Later, he walked runway for Cloak and I was gagged, but also hanging in the lore was the iconic Electro Clash dance party he threw with fellow fashion god Shayne Oliver, called <\/span><em><span>Banjee in The Basement. <\/span><\/em><span>It was the indie sleaze era and I was young and, well, heavily sedated. I can\u2019t recall actually attending Banjee in the Basement? Or did I? But I remember the spirit of it, hanging in the air, very hard. Like Telfar was one of the underground kings of New York, \u201cand don\u2019t you forget it\u201d, kind of vibes.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"0fc15593-0e3a-4990-af86-b39401010db4\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/0\/1430680.jpeg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.5\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Telfar, Paradigm Shift\" class=\"img\" height=\"2004\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430680-1.jpeg\" width=\"3000\" title=\"1430680-1\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy and <span class=\"nowrap\">\u00a9 TELFAR<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Even recalling the indie sleaze era, how we all acted like fucking demons, but his command of space was different, stoic, yet acutely aware. His vibe: coolly unchaotic. You could tell behind his eyes that he was cooking up something, and then one day it all <em>hit<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Established in 2006 as a fashion line, you could say that the crowning opus of Telfar was the brand\u2019s infamous bags. In 2020, the Telfar bag became a fetish item, bought by hundreds of thousands of Black consumers \u2013 and to it\u2019s credit by simple word of mouth and social media push. I remember surmising the logo and thinking, \u201cWait, isn\u2019t that the Tevin Campbell logo?!\u201d The entire trickster IQ of a boy genius at work \u2013\u00a0 the proliferation of Telfar felt something like a coup. The entire swag felt like an avant-garde take on the bygone Pro-Black clothing line FUBU (For Us By Us), but with an elevated cool. Like one of those \u201cif you know, you know\u201d moments. There was never any major national campaign pushing it through the ether; I was an authentic come-up, and a weird cultural blip, that inspired a sense of hope \u2013 \u201ca luxury item\u201d was more than just a <\/span><em><span>price point<\/span><\/em><span>, but could also be floated on the idea of a shared group catharsis.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>In the de-escalation of the highs of that time period, we are all aware of the price we paid for 2020 \u2013 from the Black Lives Matter movement and beyond. In short, we were never supposed to have <\/span><em><span>that<\/span><\/em><span> level of revolution using the master\u2019s tools \u2013 and the decline from that has felt rapid in parts. But then, of course, the revolution always recalculates, repurposes, then detonates. This new era of unfolding has yielded from the Telfar camp yet another golden egg: Telfar TV and its newest offering: a \u201creality\u201d tv show called<\/span><em><span> New Models<\/span><\/em><span>. As Babak puts it, \u201cNew Models is basically a reality show where we announce open castings for <\/span><em><span>New Models<\/span><\/em><span> \u2013 a thousand people show up to be new models,\u00a0 and then we agitate, propagandise and put them through challenges, insisting that we were not talking about fashion models at all but \u2018new models\u2019 of social political organisation and resistance. Which we are.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<p><span>Though commerce and consumerism give the illusion of \u201cchoice\u201d, the cult of Telfar has done a perhaps perishable but powerful thing; given an open invite to what is a deeply exclusive party<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><span>The format of the show deeply problematises the term \u201creality\u201d TV. It sits in a dizzying Venn diagram of what feels simultaneously like a Warholian Factory happening, the QVC tele-auction next work, a filmed open mic\/improv night, and a kind of surrealist, tongue-in-cheek experimental form that is something altogether unclassifiable; a deep signifier but simultaneously liminal.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Though fashion is ultimately seen as superficial,\u00a0 however you cut the cloth, <\/span><em><span>what<\/span><\/em><span> we wear and <\/span><em><span>why<\/span><\/em><span> we wear are deeply political choices. The Telfar label has taken this perilous faultline of division and made a home in it. New Models has taken a boldly social[ist?] stance and blurred a line in the sand with it. Though commerce and consumerism give the illusion of \u201cchoice\u201d, the cult of Telfar has done a perhaps perishable but powerful thing; given an open invite to what is a deeply exclusive party.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.180studios.com\/paradigm-shift\">Paradigm Shift<\/a>\u00a0<em>features work by Sophia Al-Maria, Meriem Bennani, Dara Birnbaum, Foday Dumbuya, Cao Fei, Tremaine Emory, Nan Goldin, Arthur Jafa, Derek Jarman, JulianKnxx Mark Leckey, Jos\u00e8fa Ntjam, Pipilotti Rist, Martine Syms, TELFAR, Ryan Trecartin, Gillian Wearing, and Andy Warhol.\u00a0<\/em><em>The show runs at 180 Strand until December 21.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<footer class=\"article-footer\">\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<div class=\"article-series\">\n<h4 class=\"heading\">More on these topics<\/h4>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"article-series\"><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><a class=\"series\" 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