{"id":683879,"date":"2025-11-13T12:46:59","date_gmt":"2025-11-13T09:46:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=683879"},"modified":"2025-11-13T12:46:59","modified_gmt":"2025-11-13T09:46:59","slug":"the-risky-business-of-bringing-back-archive-beauty-products","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=683879","title":{"rendered":"The risky business of bringing back archive beauty products"},"content":{"rendered":"<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/beauty\/article\/69060\/1\/fleshpot-risky-business-beauty-products-archive-past-nostalgia-90s-nudes\" data-article-id=\"69060\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-portrait-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img has-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.71\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Archive makeup comeback\" class=\"img\" height=\"1670\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430562-3.jpg\" width=\"1192\" title=\"1430562-3\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"inner\"><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of <span class=\"nowrap\">MAC Cosmetics<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><span class=\"month\">November<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"11\">11,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2025<\/span><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - beauty\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\">Beauty<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty-feature\">Beauty Feature<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>The risky business of bringing back archive <span class=\"nowrap\">beauty products<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>From Fleshpot to 90s nudes, why are we so nostalgic about make-up shades of <span class=\"nowrap\">the past?<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><span class=\"month\">November<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"11\">11,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2025<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - beauty\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\">Beauty<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty-feature\">Beauty Feature<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/KristenBateman\">Kristen Bateman<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<aside class=\"primary\">\n<div class=\"sticky bottom\">\n<div class=\"read-more\"><span class=\"read-more-header\">Read More<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-items\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-life-culture\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\/article\/69021\/1\/how-to-date-when-you-re-neurodivergent-autism-adhd-spectrum-love\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"How to Date When 16x9\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430174.jpg\" title=\"1430174\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\">Life &amp; Culture<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\/article\/69021\/1\/how-to-date-when-you-re-neurodivergent-autism-adhd-spectrum-love\"><span class=\"title\">How to date when&#8230; you\u2019re neurodivergent<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-music\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\/article\/60775\/1\/little-simz-dazed-autumn-2023-print-interview\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"DC281 Covers RGB Little Simz\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1352836.jpg\" title=\"1352836\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\">Music<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\/article\/60775\/1\/little-simz-dazed-autumn-2023-print-interview\"><span class=\"title\">Little Simz: the hip-hop star \u2018cut with a different scissor\u2019<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"read-more-item vertical-music\">\n<div class=\"read-more-item-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\/article\/69049\/1\/five-artists-speak-on-the-future-of-latin-club-electronic-music\" class=\"article-list-item-image\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"a0332204057_16\" class=\"img\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430560-2.jpg\" title=\"1430560-2\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-item-content\"><a class=\"category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\">Music<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\/article\/69049\/1\/five-artists-speak-on-the-future-of-latin-club-electronic-music\"><span class=\"title\">5 artists speak on the future of \u2018Latin Club\u2019<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Why is everything today more orange? That\u2019s been the <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@not_another_hanna\/video\/7531916955465436471?lang=en\"><span>question<\/span><\/a><span> on many make-up artists\u2019 and devotees\u2019 minds as the 90s beauty revival continues and the search for the perfect cool-toned nude becomes ever more frantic. We\u2019re in the middle of a mass make-up shade revival nostalgia fest. All day, every day, make-up artists and content creators are <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@mikaylanogueira\/video\/7387131473951853855\"><span>mourning the loss<\/span><\/a><span> of shades past \u2013 so much so that brands like <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\/article\/65806\/1\/mac-has-finally-brought-back-og-shade-iconic-90s-lipliner-spice-supermodel\"><span>MAC Cosmetics<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.allure.com\/story\/urban-decay-naked-palette-is-back\"><span>Urban Decay<\/span><\/a><span> have started bringing back old products from the grave. <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/nars\"><span>Nars<\/span><\/a><span> just re-introduced its re-formulated version of The Multiple, which was discontinued, and brought back its <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\/article\/63218\/1\/nars-cosmetics-revisits-its-lipstick-archive-to-mark-its-30th-anniversary\"><span>original 90s lipstick range<\/span><\/a><span>. <\/span><span>Lanc\u00f4me is attempting a <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/graziadaily.co.uk\/beauty-hair\/makeup\/lancome-juicy-tubes-review\/\"><span>Juicy Tube comeback<\/span><\/a><span> through highly curated ads featuring mid-2000s icons like <\/span><em><span>Gossip Girl<\/span><\/em><span>\u2019s Chuck Bass.<\/span><span> But somehow still, nothing looks the same as it once did.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>But why are we so obsessed with old shades, particularly those from the 90s? Perhaps it has everything to do with the fact that we want what we can\u2019t have. Much of the criticism related to shade revamps is that hues today skew a little bit more warm-toned. Part of the reason behind that is because, despite today\u2019s technological advances, there are certain things that make it near impossible to re-create those exact colours from 20, 30, 40, even 50 or more years ago.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Cosmetic chemist Marisa Plescia describes the recreation of archival make-up shades as both an art and a science, citing technology such as spectrophotometers to help measure the exact colour of an archived product and aid with the new development. \u201cColours can shift over time,\u201d she says. \u201cIf you are colour matching off a product that has been sitting around for a while and the sample is old, it may not have the same colour as when it was first produced.\u201d She also cites regulations, new standards, consumer perceptions and ingredient innovation as issues that may help (or hinder) modern re-development of an age-old shade. \u201cWhile the exact match might not always be possible, many brands can get very close with modern technology and a solid understanding of the original formula.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Ingredients are one of the major reasons why it\u2019s impossible to recreate products of the past, according to Alexis Androulakis, who has a background in product development and serves as one half of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/thelipsticklesbians\/?hl=en\">The Lipstick Lesbians<\/a>. Like talc, once a common ingredient in beauty products and now frowned upon, certain materials are a major reason brands may not be able to achieve the exact same colour. There\u2019s also carmine (a pigment made from crushed beetles), a frequent ingredient in Y2K and earlier products that now impacts vegan claims. \u201cIt\u2019s about the chemicals we\u2019re legally allowed to use today \u2013 it\u2019s different from what they were allowed to do in the past,\u201d says <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/nicolaformichetti\">Nicola Formichetti<\/a>, MAC\u2019s global creative director. \u201cIf we did exactly the same today, we\u2019d go to jail!\u201d he jokes.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Many may credit the make-up artist and beauty historian <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\/article\/52076\/1\/erin-parsons-make-up-artist-vintage-archive-marilyn-monroe-50s-60s\"><span>Erin Parsons<\/span><\/a><span> as being part of the reason why MAC rereleased its new reformulated <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@erinparsonsmakeup\/video\/7456482113232047390?lang=en\"><span>Cool Spice shade<\/span><\/a><span>, after countless videos of her comparing the new shades to the original 90s formulas. She tells Dazed that, in her opinion, it\u2019s unlikely that a brand could perfectly recreate shades from decades ago. \u201cThere are too many variables here that make it difficult to determine what the colour actually looked like during that time. Also, many older formulas degrade over the years. For instance, something in a tube that was once a neutral brown may oxidise to a warmer rust. I have seen corals from the 1950s turn completely pink.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Perhaps the biggest factor of make-up not looking like it once did, however, is the tan culture of the early 2000s to 2010s. \u201cFinding cool undertones became increasingly difficult,\u201d says Parsons. \u201cIn the 90s, you had a lot of neutral mauve, greige tones, neutral to warm browns, deep brick reds, sometimes muddy in a way. These are really missing from a lot of make-up brands today. I can\u2019t say whether shades were better, but they simply did not all skew warm.\u201d Parsons is still searching for a shade match to the Inoui lipliner created by Kevyn Aucoin in the 90s. And even after countless shade re-releases, make-up artists like <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/not_another_hanna\/\"><span>Not Another Hanna<\/span><\/a><span> are doing things like <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@not_another_hanna\/video\/7531473484908662029?lang=en\"><span>wearing a blue lipliner<\/span><\/a><span> under nude shades to get their desired effect.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Still, as someone who personally collects a lot of old make-up, I couldn\u2019t help but wonder, is the nostalgia surrounding certain shades more about memory perception than the actual hue? And, do we even remember the shades of the past accurately? \u201c<\/span><span>People get emotionally attached to a product way more than they viscerally remember the colour itself,\u201d says Androulakis. \u201cThey remember the way the product made them feel. They remember the way they felt when they looked at themselves wearing that product. They want to achieve that feeling. I\u2019m sure there\u2019s gonna be fanatics who might scream or notice the difference. I think people <\/span><em><span>think<\/span><\/em><span> they want it. But they want to remember that moment in time.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"1aa23e59-303b-4fa1-a7ea-b39200f618fe\" data-src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430563.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.33\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Erin Parsons MAC spice lip liner\" class=\"img\" height=\"485\" src=\"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/1430563.jpg\" width=\"643\" title=\"1430563\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Erin Parsons compares the 90s Spice with the modern <span class=\"nowrap\">day Spice<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">TikTok<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Androulakis is of the mindset that it\u2019s completely impossible to 100 per cent accurately recreate a shade of the past, or even of the present. \u201cLiteral lipsticks that are batched in 2025, 99.9 per cent of the time, these batches have variances,\u201d she says. \u201cThere is no one methodical machine-driven way for the exact same raw materials to have the exact same nuance of texture, especially when it comes to shades&#8230; Even if you bought a product in 2025 from the same product line, you very well could have two different lots. What I mean by that is you could have bought something that was manufactured in the first half of 2025, and you then could have bought something that was manufactured in the second half of 2025. And if you\u2019re a really savvy product developer like me, you could see the differences from the same product in the same year, because there\u2019s a slightly different manufacturing procedure.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Whether or not you\u2019re on the make-up shade revival train, one of the most interesting parts of the whole trend of old shades and archive products making a comeback is just how much this movement has been crowdsourced from popular make-up influencers and real customers. \u201cI just think it\u2019s interesting that my videos on Spice lipliner led to the recreation of MAC launching Cool Spice,\u201d says Parsons. \u201cI never thought my videos would make such an impact but it seems to be working. The nudes launch was a success and many creators besides myself talked about older colours from MAC they loved and wanted to see come back.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Nostalgia in beauty will never die. People of all ages will forever chase the <\/span><em><span>feeling<\/span><\/em><span> of a specific lipstick or their favourite teenage eye shadow shade, even their old favourite fragrances. After all, it\u2019s what keeps the industry alive.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<footer class=\"article-footer\">\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<div class=\"article-series\">\n<h4 class=\"heading\">More on these topics<\/h4>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"article-series\"><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\">Beauty<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty-feature\">Beauty Feature<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/feature\">Feature<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/make-up\">make up<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/mac\">MAC<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/nars\">nars<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/footer>\n<div class=\"grid\">\n<div class=\"lava-lamp\">\n<div class=\"lava-lamp-text-container\">\n<h3 class=\"lava-lamp-subheading\">Expand your creative community and connect with 15,000 creatives from 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