{"id":353961,"date":"2024-11-01T12:14:36","date_gmt":"2024-11-01T09:14:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=353961"},"modified":"2024-11-03T12:20:19","modified_gmt":"2024-11-03T09:20:19","slug":"cine-este-familia-discreta-care-detine-casa-de-moda-de-lux-chanel-din-umbra-istoria-chanel-fara-coco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=353961","title":{"rendered":"Cine este familia discret\u0103 care de\u021bine casa de mod\u0103 de lux Chanel din umbr\u0103? \/ Istoria Chanel f\u0103r\u0103 Coco"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Familia Wertheimer a investit \u00een afacerea de parfumuri a lui Gabrielle Chanel acum un secol \u0219i sunt acum proprietarii unici ai celui de-al doilea brand de lux ca m\u0103rime din lume, relateaz\u0103 WWD<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Chanel este unul dintre cele mai cunoscute branduri de lux din lume, \u00eens\u0103 familia care de\u021bine brandul de 20 de miliarde de dolari<\/b> r\u0103m\u00e2ne \u00eenv\u0103luit\u0103 \u00een mister.<\/p>\n

Fra\u021bii Alain \u0219i G\u00e9rard Wertheimer sunt rar fotografia\u021bi. Este mai probabil s\u0103 \u00eei \u00eent\u00e2lni\u021bi pe miliardari pe o pist\u0103 de curse de cai dec\u00e2t la un eveniment de mod\u0103, dar, atunci c\u00e2nd particip\u0103 la show-urile Chanel, stau \u00een r\u00e2ndul trei sau patru.<\/p>\n

Totu\u0219i, destinul familiei lor este legat de al doilea cel mai mare brand de lux din lume de aproape un secol, incluz\u00e2nd episoade dramatice, cum sunt cele explorate \u00een recenta serie Apple TV+, \u201eThe New Look.\u201d<\/p>\n

Totul a \u00eenceput \u00een 1924, anul \u00een care a fost creat\u0103 Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 des Parfums Chanel. Gabrielle \u201eCoco\u201d Chanel, activ\u0103 \u00een afaceri din 1910, c\u0103uta parteneri pentru a-\u0219i dezvolta afacerea de parfumuri, impulsionat\u0103 de succesul parfumului No.5, lansat cu trei ani mai devreme.<\/p>\n

Th\u00e9ophile Bader,<\/strong> cofondatorul magazinului Galeries Lafayette, i-a prezentat-o pe Chanel<\/strong> fra\u021bilor Paul \u0219i Pierre Wertheimer la o pist\u0103 de curse \u00een Deauville, Fran\u021ba, unde Chanel \u00ee\u0219i deschisese prima butic \u00een 1912, c\u00e2\u0219tig\u00e2nd rapid o clientel\u0103 pentru linia sa sportiv\u0103 din jerseu, un material revolu\u021bionar folosit anterior doar pentru lenjeria b\u0103rb\u0103teasc\u0103.<\/p>\n

Tat\u0103l lor, Ernest Wertheimer<\/strong>, investise \u00een produc\u0103torul de cosmetice Bourjois la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul secolului XIX, av\u00e2nd resursele logistice pentru a produce \u0219i distribui produsele Chanel la nivel global. Wertheimerii \u0219i familia Bader erau ambele familii evreie\u0219ti din Alsacia, av\u00e2nd puternice leg\u0103turi culturale \u0219i lingvistice.<\/p>\n

Conform termenilor parteneriatului, Wertheimerii de\u021bineau 70% din companie, reprezentan\u021bii lui Bader 20%, iar Chanel \u00eens\u0103\u0219i 10%. Aceast\u0103 distribu\u021bie a dus rapid la conflicte, iar din 1928, Chanel a \u00eenceput s\u0103 conteste termenii acordului prin proceduri legale.<\/p>\n

Situa\u021bia a culminat \u00een timpul celui de-Al Doilea R\u0103zboi Mondial. \u00cen timpul r\u0103zboiului, Wertheimerii au fugit \u00een New York, iar Chanel \u0219i-a \u00eenchis casa de mod\u0103, l\u0103s\u00e2nd deschis doar un magazin de parfumuri.<\/p>\n

Pentru a-\u0219i proteja activele de jefuirea nazist\u0103, Wertheimerii au \u00eencheiat un acord cu industria\u0219ul francez \u0219i constructorul de avioane F\u00e9lix Amiot, prin care acesta urma s\u0103 de\u021bin\u0103 temporar afacerile lor.<\/p>\n

\u00cen aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103, Chanel, care avea o rela\u021bie cu ofi\u021berul nazist Hans G\u00fcnther von Dincklage<\/strong>, a \u00eencercat s\u0103 recupereze afacerea de parfumuri folosind legile care interziceau evreilor s\u0103 de\u021bin\u0103 afaceri \u00een Fran\u021ba, un proces cunoscut ca \u201earizare.\u201d<\/p>\n

Aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103 a fost subiectul serialului \u201eThe New Look\u201d, care detalia activit\u0103\u021bile de r\u0103zboi ale lui Christian Dior \u0219i Coco Chanel.<\/p>\n

\u00centre timp, Wertheimerii produceau No.5 \u00eentr-o fabric\u0103 din New Jersey, aliment\u00e2nd furia creatoarei. \u00cens\u0103, dup\u0103 r\u0103zboi, Amiot a returnat proprietatea Chanel \u0219i Bourjois c\u0103tre Wertheimeri.<\/p>\n

Dup\u0103 moartea lui Paul Wertheimer \u00een 1948, Pierre a cump\u0103rat ac\u021biunile fratelui s\u0103u \u0219i a \u00eencheiat o nou\u0103 \u00een\u021belegere cu Chanel. \u00cen 1954, a achizi\u021bionat \u0219i restul de 20% de la asocia\u021bii lui Bader. A fost o mi\u0219care strategic\u0103, iar \u00een anii ce au urmat, Chanel a creat semn\u0103turile brandului, precum geanta matlasat\u0103, costumul din tweed \u0219i pantofii cu dou\u0103 tonuri.<\/p>\n

O schimbare genera\u021bional\u0103 urma s\u0103 deschid\u0103 un nou capitol pentru cas\u0103.<\/p>\n

Pierre Wertheimer<\/strong> a decedat \u00een 1965, l\u0103s\u00e2nd afacerea \u00een m\u00e2inile fiului s\u0103u Jacques. Acesta avea doi b\u0103ie\u021bi, Alain \u0219i G\u00e9rard, \u00eens\u0103 lipsa abilit\u0103\u021bilor de afaceri a lui Jacques a dus la promovarea lui Jacques Helleu ca director artistic, care a revolu\u021bionat publicitatea Chanel.<\/p>\n

\u00cen ciuda dificult\u0103\u021bilor, Jacques a men\u021binut marca Chanel pe linia de plutire. \u00cen 1983, cu numirea lui Karl Lagerfeld ca director de crea\u021bie, brandul a cunoscut o perioad\u0103 de cre\u0219tere rapid\u0103, logo-ul Chanel devenind un simbol iconic al luxului.<\/p>\n

\u00cen 1996, dup\u0103 moartea tat\u0103lui lor, Alain \u0219i G\u00e9rard Wertheimer au devenit coproprietari ai Chanel, ajung\u00e2nd \u00een topul celor mai boga\u021bi oameni din Fran\u021ba.<\/p>\n

Acum, la 75 \u0219i 73 de ani, ei \u00ee\u0219i \u00eempart responsabilit\u0103\u021bile, Alain locuind \u00een New York, iar G\u00e9rard \u00een Elve\u021bia. \u00centre timp, fratele lor vitreg, Charles Heilbronn, conduce biroul de familie, Mousse Partners, o entitate extrem de discret\u0103.<\/p>\n

Chanel de\u021bine \u0219i controleaz\u0103 branduri precum Eres \u0219i Orlebar Brown, specializate \u00een \u00eembr\u0103c\u0103minte de baie, \u0219i are pachete majoritare \u00een afaceri cu tricotaje \u0219i argint\u0103rie, plus o serie de podgorii.<\/p>\n

Alain \u0219i G\u00e9rard conduc \u0219i Wertheimer et Fr\u00e8re, grajdul de cai de curse al familiei. Spre deosebire de al\u021bi magna\u021bi francezi, fra\u021bii Wertheimer sunt extrem de discre\u021bi. \u201eSuntem o familie foarte discret\u0103, nu vorbim niciodat\u0103,\u201d a spus G\u00e9rard \u00een 2002.<\/p>\n

\u00cen 2018, compania a publicat pentru prima dat\u0103 rezultate financiare consolidate. Acum, Chanel are peste 36.500 de angaja\u021bi, iar dup\u0103 moartea lui Lagerfeld \u00een 2019, au \u00eenceput s\u0103 apar\u0103 specula\u021bii despre viitorul companiei.<\/p>\n

Cu toate acestea, fra\u021bii Wertheimer r\u0103m\u00e2n la conducere, inclusiv \u00een c\u0103utarea unui nou designer, dup\u0103 plecarea lui Virginie Viard. To\u021bi ochii sunt acum pe urm\u0103toarea genera\u021bie, cu Nathaniel Wertheimer \u0219i Arthur Heilbronn ca poten\u021biali succesori.<\/p>\n

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Urm\u0103re\u0219te mai jos produc\u021biile video ale G4Media:<\/h4>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Source URL: https:\/\/www.g4media.ro\/cine-este-familia-discreta-care-detine-casa-de-moda-de-lux-chanel-din-umbra-istoria-chanel-fara-coco.html<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Familia Wertheimer a investit \u00een afacerea de parfumuri a lui Gabrielle Chanel acum un secol \u0219i sunt acum proprietarii unici ai celui de-al doilea brand de lux ca m\u0103rime din lume, relateaz\u0103 WWD. Chanel este unul dintre cele mai cunoscute branduri de lux din lume, \u00eens\u0103 familia care de\u021bine brandul de 20 de miliarde de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":373574,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[24],"class_list":["post-353961","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-politics","tag-g4media"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/353961","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=353961"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/353961\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":364070,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/353961\/revisions\/364070"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/373574"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=353961"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=353961"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=353961"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}