{"id":2188298,"date":"2026-10-09T18:35:00","date_gmt":"2026-10-09T15:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2188298"},"modified":"2026-10-09T18:35:00","modified_gmt":"2026-10-09T15:35:00","slug":"anthony-vaccarellos-7-sexiest-collections-at-saint-laurent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2188298","title":{"rendered":"Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s 7 sexiest collections at Saint Laurent"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/113-120-1589-1059\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457344.jpg&#8221;]<\/p>\n<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/fashion\/article\/71147\/1\/anthony-vaccarello-saint-laurent-exit-seven-sexiest-collections\" data-article-id=\"71147\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-portrait-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img has-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS127\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1280\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457344.jpg\" width=\"1996\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"inner\"><span class=\"credit\">Photography Kristy Sparow via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><time datetime=\"2026-10-09T18:35:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"09 October 2026\"><span class=\"month\">October<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"9\">9,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><br \/>\n\/<br \/>\n<a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/lists\">Lists<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"standard-tag-container\"><a class=\"standard-category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a> \/<br \/>\n<a class=\"standard-series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/lists\">Lists<\/a><\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s 7 sexiest collections at <span class=\"nowrap\">Saint Laurent<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>As the designer departs the house after a decade, we look back at the moments the Belgian designer rewrote the rules <span class=\"nowrap\">of sexuality<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-10-09T18:35:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"09 October 2026\"><span class=\"month\">October<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"9\">9,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-10-09T18:35:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"09 October 2026\"><span class=\"month\">October<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"9\">9,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/p>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/SophieWilson\"><br \/>\nSophie Wilson<br \/>\n<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-59-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Saint Laurent SS27<\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/0\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-285-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456268.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/1\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-278-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456269.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/2\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-300-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456270.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/3\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-293-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456271.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/4\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-293-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456272.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/5\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-315-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456273.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 59 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Following his shimmering swan song at Paris Fashion Week, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/anthony-vaccarello\"><span>Anthony Vaccarello<\/span><\/a><span>\u2019s departure from <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/saint-laurent\"><span>Saint Laurent<\/span><\/a><span> was confirmed this morning (October 9). During his decade-long tenure, the Belgian designer slowly reshaped the brand, setting out a seductive vision of liberated sensuality in languid, body-skimming silhouettes and androgynous tailoring, designed for slipping out into the sultry Paris night \u2013 Eiffel Tower glittering in the background, of course.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Vaccarello\u2019s most successful designs were rooted in physical sensation. These are clothes for feeling good as much as for looking good. After all, Vaccarello\u2019s Saint Laurent woman \u201cisn\u2019t trying to please anyone or have sex with someone else,\u201d he told Bella Freud last month on the <\/span><em><span>Fashion Neurosis<\/span><\/em><span> podcast. \u201cShe can have sex with herself. She doesn\u2019t need someone to do whatever she wants.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Her wardrobe is her toolkit for pursuing pleasure and expressing her hidden desires. Sharp officewear is paired with dominatrix latex or sadomasochistic leather to complete the vision of what he calls \u201cbourgeois perversity\u201d \u2013 the delicate balance between elegance and abandon, between acceptable \u2018good taste\u2019 and a pulse-racing fetish. Vaccarello\u2019s era was marked by unapologetic sensuality and high octane glamour, so in light of his departure we\u2019re taking a look back at the seven sexiest collections that defined his tenure.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>AN AGENDA SETTING DEBUT<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"ad5e5d07-37f7-44a5-8280-a68f008e158b\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1180\/9\/1189541.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.33\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS17 Womenswear PFW Dazed\" class=\"img\" height=\"1507\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1180\/9\/1189541.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent SS17<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Evan Schreiber<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>When Vaccarello took over the house in 2016, he had a complex legacy to tackle. His predecessor, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/hedi-slimane\"><span>Hedi Slimane<\/span><\/a><span>, had controversially slashed the \u2018Yves\u2019 from Yves Saint Laurent in a bid to modernise the brand. To put his own stamp on the new era, Vaccarello reintroduced the classic YSL branding in a bold fashion, hanging a massive neon logo from a construction crane above the show venue. The logo was subtly reintroduced in the collection, too, with the now-iconic Opyum shoe replacing its classic stiletto heel with the interlocking YSL logo. This agenda-setting accessory was an instant commercial success. It signalled the shift from Slimane\u2019s West Coast-inspired indie grunge aesthetic to a more grown up vision of afterdark Parisian glam. There were hints of the codes that would become Vaccarello staples: exaggerated 80s power suiting, dark, seductive fabrics and barely-there, leg lengthening micro-minis.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>LATEX AND LUST<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"85543527-33e0-4c04-a4c0-b4de0129d729\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457341.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.5\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW20\" class=\"img\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457341.jpg\" width=\"3000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent AW20<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Swan Gallet\/WWD\/Penske Media via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images)<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Saint Laurent\u2019s AW20 collection was Vacarello\u2019s most sexual up to that point. It was here that he coined the phrase \u201cbourgeous perversity\u201d \u2013 think Catherine Deneuve in Luis Bu\u00f1uel\u2019s erotic psychodrama <\/span><em><span>Belle de Jour<\/span><\/em><span>, which was costume designed by Monsieur Saint Laurent himself. For the AW20 collection, Vaccarello toyed with the tension between good and bad taste. Tailored double breasted blazers and prim, pussy-bowed blouses were paired with latex leggings, thigh-high boots, halter neck tops and ultra-tight turtlenecks that looked like lustrous second skins.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Despite the collection\u2019s sadomasochistic elements, this collection marked a departure from Vacarello\u2019s all black pallette, introducing lurid, jewel-toned purples, reds and blues. Presented mere weeks before we plunged into the sexless months of lockdown, this served as a reminder of the power of the erotic imagination.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE POWER SUIT<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"942f9780-fbe0-4679-8661-afb800ac4c96\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1400\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/0\/1340591.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW23\" class=\"img\" height=\"2099\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/0\/1340591.jpg\" width=\"1400\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"credit\">Photography Cris Fragkou<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Out of the bedroom and into the boardroom. Vaccarello had been playing with 80s power silhouettes since his debut, but the AW23 collection is the most distilled version of this vision. Razor-sharp power dressing was reimagined as a tool for dominance and seduction. Blazers commanded physical space while knee-grazing pencil skirts came with suggestive slits down the middle. This collection helped catapult corpcore and office siren into industry-wide trends. A few seasons later, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/bella-hadid\"><span>Bella Hadid<\/span><\/a><span> opened the SS25 dressed as Yves Saint Laurent himself \u2013 in a black double-breasted suit and thick-rimmed glasses \u2013 encapsulating once more the sensual androgyny at the heart of Vaccarello\u2019s time at the brand.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>SENSUAL STOCKINGS<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"2199ab7d-e16d-43e2-a9fe-b1a700bc417a\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1370\/9\/1379439.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW24\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1370\/9\/1379439.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent AW24<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Opaque tights are rarely erotic. Usually, they\u2019re a necessary evil against the cold. But, with the opening look of his AW24 collection, Vaccerello changed that, reworking that same material into a sheer micro-mini bodycon dress. What followed was a series of transparent looks in nude tones that walked the line between underwear and outerwear, each crafted from the exact same fabric used for tights. Vaccarello said he was inspired by Bianca Censori and the omnipresence of yoga pants worn on the street, but also by the famous Jean Louis dress that <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/marilyn-monroe\"><span>Marilyn Monroe<\/span><\/a><span> wore to sing happy birthday to JFK \u2013 and Kim Kardashian wore to the 2024 Met Gala. In his hands, this aesthetic was transformed into a modern, sensual luxury. Tights tear, ladder and fall apart easily, but that was the point. Vaccarello was interested in fleeting ephemerality. \u201cEveryone was trying to do more and more commercial pieces,\u201d he said \u201cand I really wanted people to dream about something unrealistic.\u201d And, suddenly, nude tights became something to dream about.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE BOYS IN BERLIN<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"493b6039-1d8a-4bf7-9452-b02000ad73ae\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/6\/1346795.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS24 menswear show Berlin\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/6\/1346795.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent <span class=\"nowrap\">SS24 men\u2019s<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of <span class=\"nowrap\">Saint Laurent<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Berlin has been home to some of the world\u2019s greatest androgynous fashion icons which, of course, means home to some of the greatest tailoring. For SS24 men\u2019s, Vaccarello landed in Berlin, paying homage to the likes of Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie through precise, gender-fluid tailoring. Skinny tuxedos, structured shoulders and plunging necklines proved that the Saint Laurent man is just as sexually liberated as the Saint Laurent woman.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>WHEN YVES MET MAPPLETHORPE<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"66fb30d0-f9b8-4312-a555-b27400b789c9\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1390\/9\/1399921.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW25 men\u2019s\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1390\/9\/1399921.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of <span class=\"nowrap\">Saint Laurent<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The AW25 men\u2019s collection was inspired by an imagined meeting between legendary photographer <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/robert-mapplethorpe\"><span>Robert Mapplethorpe<\/span><\/a><span> and Monsieur Saint Laurent. The resulting looks married classic tailoring with fetishistic leather \u2013 \u201crespectable on the top, but dirty on the way down\u201d, Vaccarello quipped. Office appropriate blazers were paired with kinky, thigh-high leather wader boots. Patrick Bateman-esque suits were covered by weathered, leather aviator jackets. For this collection, straitlaced virtue was nothing more than a fa\u00e7ade.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>SHROUDED SEXUALITY<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"225f51da-7880-4c7a-b0b6-b4de012f2345\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457342.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS23\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457342.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent SS23<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Peter White via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The way the body moves beneath your clothes can be a sensual act. In modern dancer and choreographer Martha Graham\u2019s 1930 piece, <\/span><em><span>Lamentation<\/span><\/em><span>, she moves around inside a tubular, jersey fabric in an expression of grief. For Vaccarello, however, this was the starting inspiration not for an exploration of grief, but of nocturnal Parisian elegance. For SS23\u2019s women\u2019s show, the designer went back into the archive, reviving the hooded capuche dress that Yves Saint Laurent helped popularise in the mid-80s. These languid, gossamer silk dresses were worn with oversized, masculine tailoring, once again marrying masculine codes with feminine sensuality. These jewel toned hooded gowns quickly became a red carpet favourite among <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/kate-moss\"><span>Kate Moss<\/span><\/a><span>, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jenna-ortega\"><span>Jenna Ortega<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beyonce\"><span>Beyonce<\/span><\/a><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. 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creative community and connect with 30,000+ creatives from around the world.<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"grid split-list__header\">\n<div class=\"section-header\">\n<div class=\"section-header__link\">\n<h2 class=\"section-header__title\">Trending<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<section class=\"split-list-scene\" data-split-scene>\n<section class=\"split-list\" id=\"trending\" data-split>\n<div class=\"split-list__layout\" aria-label=\"Trending\">\n<div class=\"split-list__feature\"><a class=\"split-hero\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71147\/1\/anthony-vaccarello-saint-laurent-exit-seven-sexiest-collections\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-hero__media\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS127\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/113-120-1589-1059\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457344.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-hero__panel\">\n<div class=\"split-hero__wrapper\">\n<h3 class=\"split-hero__title\">Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s 7 sexiest collections at Saint Laurent<\/h3>\n<p class=\"split-hero__summary\">As the designer departs the house after a decade, we look back at the moments the Belgian designer rewrote the rules of sexuality<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"split-hero__category\">Fashion<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-list__rail\" data-split-rail tabindex=\"0\">\n<div class=\"split-list__railInner\"><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71144\/1\/cos-launches-aw26-campaign-starring-awar-odhiang-fashion-news-this-week\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"COS_AW26 CAMPAIGN_AWAR ODHIANG_01\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-705-2249-1499\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457330.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">COS launches AW26 campaign starring Awar Odhiang<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71040\/1\/dazed-x-salomon-s-new-zine-jisoo-in-the-open\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"split-rail-card__campaign optional-paragraph\">Salomon<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"SALOMON_WINTER STORY_BTS_Grab Still_01-F\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-0-2532-1688\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456702.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">This is your chance to get our limited edition Salomon zine featuring JISOO<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71143\/1\/animal-inspired-footwear-trend-thom-browne-marc-jacobs\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Thom Browne SS27\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-649-1418-945\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457326.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Feral footwear: Why are animal-inspired shoes having such a moment?<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\/article\/71138\/1\/the-rise-of-queer-perfume-gay-scent-fragrance-derek-deng\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Hero-Image-10-scaled\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-275-2560-1706\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457329.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Beauty<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">\u2018Do you smell like a bi millennial?\u2019: Everyone is talking about gay perfume<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71123\/1\/dazed-and-dover-street-market-paris-magazine-drop-new-idols\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"DAZED X DSMP \" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-88-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457000.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Dazed and Dover Street Market Paris stage a magazine drop<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71142\/1\/what-went-down-at-dazed-autumn-2026-new-idols-issue-mag-drop\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Dazed Autumn 2026 Issue Mag Drop\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-103-2996-1997\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457301.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">What went down at Dazed\u2019s New Idols issue mag drop<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/life-culture\/article\/71140\/1\/we-asked-people-what-they-really-use-their-burner-account-for-channing-tatum\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"She&apos;s the Man (2006)\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-0-1024-682\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457325.jpeg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Life &amp; Culture<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">\u2018I argue with everyone\u2019: The rise of the chaotic burner account<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/71141\/1\/our-hero-balthazar-a-dark-comedy-on-incel-culture-and-gun-violence\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Asa Butterfield and Jaeden Martell in Our Hero, Balthazar\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/54-0-1513-1008\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457299.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Film &amp; TV<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Our Hero, Balthazar: A dark comedy on incel culture and gun violence<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline\" data-newsletter hidden>\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div 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Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-59-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Saint Laurent SS27<\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/0\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-285-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456268.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/1\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-278-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456269.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/2\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-300-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456270.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/3\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-293-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456271.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/4\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-293-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456272.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37499\/5\/saint-laurent-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-315-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456273.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 59 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Following his shimmering swan song at Paris Fashion Week, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/anthony-vaccarello\"><span>Anthony Vaccarello<\/span><\/a><span>\u2019s departure from <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/saint-laurent\"><span>Saint Laurent<\/span><\/a><span> was confirmed this morning (October 9). During his decade-long tenure, the Belgian designer slowly reshaped the brand, setting out a seductive vision of liberated sensuality in languid, body-skimming silhouettes and androgynous tailoring, designed for slipping out into the sultry Paris night \u2013 Eiffel Tower glittering in the background, of course.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Vaccarello\u2019s most successful designs were rooted in physical sensation. These are clothes for feeling good as much as for looking good. After all, Vaccarello\u2019s Saint Laurent woman \u201cisn\u2019t trying to please anyone or have sex with someone else,\u201d he told Bella Freud last month on the <\/span><em><span>Fashion Neurosis<\/span><\/em><span> podcast. \u201cShe can have sex with herself. She doesn\u2019t need someone to do whatever she wants.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Her wardrobe is her toolkit for pursuing pleasure and expressing her hidden desires. Sharp officewear is paired with dominatrix latex or sadomasochistic leather to complete the vision of what he calls \u201cbourgeois perversity\u201d \u2013 the delicate balance between elegance and abandon, between acceptable \u2018good taste\u2019 and a pulse-racing fetish. Vaccarello\u2019s era was marked by unapologetic sensuality and high octane glamour, so in light of his departure we\u2019re taking a look back at the seven sexiest collections that defined his tenure.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>AN AGENDA SETTING DEBUT<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"ad5e5d07-37f7-44a5-8280-a68f008e158b\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1180\/9\/1189541.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.33\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS17 Womenswear PFW Dazed\" class=\"img\" height=\"1507\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1180\/9\/1189541.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent SS17<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Evan Schreiber<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>When Vaccarello took over the house in 2016, he had a complex legacy to tackle. His predecessor, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/hedi-slimane\"><span>Hedi Slimane<\/span><\/a><span>, had controversially slashed the \u2018Yves\u2019 from Yves Saint Laurent in a bid to modernise the brand. To put his own stamp on the new era, Vaccarello reintroduced the classic YSL branding in a bold fashion, hanging a massive neon logo from a construction crane above the show venue. The logo was subtly reintroduced in the collection, too, with the now-iconic Opyum shoe replacing its classic stiletto heel with the interlocking YSL logo. This agenda-setting accessory was an instant commercial success. It signalled the shift from Slimane\u2019s West Coast-inspired indie grunge aesthetic to a more grown up vision of afterdark Parisian glam. There were hints of the codes that would become Vaccarello staples: exaggerated 80s power suiting, dark, seductive fabrics and barely-there, leg lengthening micro-minis.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>LATEX AND LUST<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"85543527-33e0-4c04-a4c0-b4de0129d729\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457341.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"1.5\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW20\" class=\"img\" height=\"2000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457341.jpg\" width=\"3000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent AW20<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Swan Gallet\/WWD\/Penske Media via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images)<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Saint Laurent\u2019s AW20 collection was Vacarello\u2019s most sexual up to that point. It was here that he coined the phrase \u201cbourgeous perversity\u201d \u2013 think Catherine Deneuve in Luis Bu\u00f1uel\u2019s erotic psychodrama <\/span><em><span>Belle de Jour<\/span><\/em><span>, which was costume designed by Monsieur Saint Laurent himself. For the AW20 collection, Vaccarello toyed with the tension between good and bad taste. Tailored double breasted blazers and prim, pussy-bowed blouses were paired with latex leggings, thigh-high boots, halter neck tops and ultra-tight turtlenecks that looked like lustrous second skins.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Despite the collection\u2019s sadomasochistic elements, this collection marked a departure from Vacarello\u2019s all black pallette, introducing lurid, jewel-toned purples, reds and blues. Presented mere weeks before we plunged into the sexless months of lockdown, this served as a reminder of the power of the erotic imagination.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE POWER SUIT<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"942f9780-fbe0-4679-8661-afb800ac4c96\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1400\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/0\/1340591.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW23\" class=\"img\" height=\"2099\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/0\/1340591.jpg\" width=\"1400\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"credit\">Photography Cris Fragkou<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Out of the bedroom and into the boardroom. Vaccarello had been playing with 80s power silhouettes since his debut, but the AW23 collection is the most distilled version of this vision. Razor-sharp power dressing was reimagined as a tool for dominance and seduction. Blazers commanded physical space while knee-grazing pencil skirts came with suggestive slits down the middle. This collection helped catapult corpcore and office siren into industry-wide trends. A few seasons later, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/bella-hadid\"><span>Bella Hadid<\/span><\/a><span> opened the SS25 dressed as Yves Saint Laurent himself \u2013 in a black double-breasted suit and thick-rimmed glasses \u2013 encapsulating once more the sensual androgyny at the heart of Vaccarello\u2019s time at the brand.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>SENSUAL STOCKINGS<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"2199ab7d-e16d-43e2-a9fe-b1a700bc417a\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1370\/9\/1379439.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW24\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1370\/9\/1379439.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent AW24<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Opaque tights are rarely erotic. Usually, they\u2019re a necessary evil against the cold. But, with the opening look of his AW24 collection, Vaccerello changed that, reworking that same material into a sheer micro-mini bodycon dress. What followed was a series of transparent looks in nude tones that walked the line between underwear and outerwear, each crafted from the exact same fabric used for tights. Vaccarello said he was inspired by Bianca Censori and the omnipresence of yoga pants worn on the street, but also by the famous Jean Louis dress that <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/marilyn-monroe\"><span>Marilyn Monroe<\/span><\/a><span> wore to sing happy birthday to JFK \u2013 and Kim Kardashian wore to the 2024 Met Gala. In his hands, this aesthetic was transformed into a modern, sensual luxury. Tights tear, ladder and fall apart easily, but that was the point. Vaccarello was interested in fleeting ephemerality. \u201cEveryone was trying to do more and more commercial pieces,\u201d he said \u201cand I really wanted people to dream about something unrealistic.\u201d And, suddenly, nude tights became something to dream about.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE BOYS IN BERLIN<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"493b6039-1d8a-4bf7-9452-b02000ad73ae\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/6\/1346795.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS24 menswear show Berlin\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1340\/6\/1346795.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent <span class=\"nowrap\">SS24 men\u2019s<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of <span class=\"nowrap\">Saint Laurent<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Berlin has been home to some of the world\u2019s greatest androgynous fashion icons which, of course, means home to some of the greatest tailoring. For SS24 men\u2019s, Vaccarello landed in Berlin, paying homage to the likes of Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie through precise, gender-fluid tailoring. Skinny tuxedos, structured shoulders and plunging necklines proved that the Saint Laurent man is just as sexually liberated as the Saint Laurent woman.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>WHEN YVES MET MAPPLETHORPE<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"66fb30d0-f9b8-4312-a555-b27400b789c9\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1390\/9\/1399921.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent AW25 men\u2019s\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1390\/9\/1399921.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of <span class=\"nowrap\">Saint Laurent<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The AW25 men\u2019s collection was inspired by an imagined meeting between legendary photographer <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/robert-mapplethorpe\"><span>Robert Mapplethorpe<\/span><\/a><span> and Monsieur Saint Laurent. The resulting looks married classic tailoring with fetishistic leather \u2013 \u201crespectable on the top, but dirty on the way down\u201d, Vaccarello quipped. Office appropriate blazers were paired with kinky, thigh-high leather wader boots. Patrick Bateman-esque suits were covered by weathered, leather aviator jackets. For this collection, straitlaced virtue was nothing more than a fa\u00e7ade.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>SHROUDED SEXUALITY<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"225f51da-7880-4c7a-b0b6-b4de012f2345\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457342.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Saint Laurent SS23\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457342.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Saint Laurent SS23<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Peter White via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The way the body moves beneath your clothes can be a sensual act. In modern dancer and choreographer Martha Graham\u2019s 1930 piece, <\/span><em><span>Lamentation<\/span><\/em><span>, she moves around inside a tubular, jersey fabric in an expression of grief. For Vaccarello, however, this was the starting inspiration not for an exploration of grief, but of nocturnal Parisian elegance. For SS23\u2019s women\u2019s show, the designer went back into the archive, reviving the hooded capuche dress that Yves Saint Laurent helped popularise in the mid-80s. These languid, gossamer silk dresses were worn with oversized, masculine tailoring, once again marrying masculine codes with feminine sensuality. These jewel toned hooded gowns quickly became a red carpet favourite among <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/kate-moss\"><span>Kate Moss<\/span><\/a><span>, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jenna-ortega\"><span>Jenna Ortega<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beyonce\"><span>Beyonce<\/span><\/a><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>[analyse_source url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71147\/1\/anthony-vaccarello-saint-laurent-exit-seven-sexiest-collections&#8221;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/113-120-1589-1059\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/7\/1457344.jpg&#8221;] Photography Kristy Sparow via Getty Images October\u00a0 9,\u00a0 2026 Fashion \/ Lists Fashion \/ Lists Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s 7 sexiest collections at Saint Laurent As the designer departs the house after a decade, we look back at the moments the Belgian designer rewrote the rules of sexuality October\u00a0 9,\u00a0 2026 October\u00a0 9,\u00a0 2026 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[226,76],"class_list":["post-2188298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-politics","tag-crawlmanager","tag-dazeddigital-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2188298","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2188298"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2188298\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2188298"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2188298"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2188298"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}