{"id":2170427,"date":"2026-09-29T20:39:00","date_gmt":"2026-09-29T17:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2170427"},"modified":"2026-09-29T20:39:00","modified_gmt":"2026-09-29T17:39:00","slug":"glenn-martens-gives-raf-simons-his-flowers-at-margiela-ss27","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2170427","title":{"rendered":"Glenn Martens gives Raf Simons his flowers at Margiela SS27"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/173-128-1657-1104\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456248.jpg&#8221;]<\/p>\n<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/fashion\/article\/71076\/1\/maison-margiela-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-glenn-martens-dior-raf-simons\" data-article-id=\"71076\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-portrait-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img has-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1280\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456248.jpg\" width=\"1999\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"inner\"><span class=\"credit\">Photo by <span class=\"nowrap\">Estrop\/Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><time datetime=\"2026-09-29T20:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"29 September 2026\"><span class=\"month\">September<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"29\">29,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><br \/>\n\/<br \/>\n<a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/ss27\">SS27<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"standard-tag-container\"><a class=\"standard-category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a> \/<br \/>\n<a class=\"standard-series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/ss27\">SS27<\/a><\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>Glenn Martens gives Raf Simons his flowers at <span class=\"nowrap\">Margiela SS27<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>At Paris Fashion Week, one Belgian designer paid tribute <span class=\"nowrap\">to another<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-09-29T20:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"29 September 2026\"><span class=\"month\">September<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"29\">29,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-09-29T20:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"29 September 2026\"><span class=\"month\">September<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"29\">29,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/p>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/isobelvandyke\"><br \/>\nIsobel Van Dyke<br \/>\n<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-12-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Maison Margiela SS27<\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/0\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456236.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/1\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456237.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/2\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456238.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/3\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456239.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/4\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456240.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/5\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456241.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 12 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Two of the biggest shows on the Paris Fashion Week schedule took place this afternoon (September 29), and strangely, there were clear crossovers between them. Both <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\"><span>Dior<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maison-martin-margiela\"><span>Margiela\u2019s<\/span><\/a><span> collections were inspired by contrasting \u2018flou\u2019 and \u2018tailleur\u2019 techniques. In couture, flou focuses on soft, free-flowing silhouettes, whereas tailleur uses rigid, structured tailoring, created with heavier materials. At Dior, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jonathan-anderson\"><span>Jonathan Anderson<\/span><\/a><span> turned typically tailleur-made garments (jackets, shirts and trousers) into floating designs that would usually be made by Le Flou \u2013 the department of an atelier where dresses are made.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Later this afternoon, Margiela\u2019s SS27 show was titled <\/span><em><span>HARD and SOFT, <\/span><\/em><span>in direct reference to the juxtaposing design techniques. Both Margiela and Dior referred to \u2018flou\u2019 in their show notes, which <\/span><span>wasn\u2019t the only unexpected crossover this week. The<\/span><span> Margiela show took place at L\u2019\u00c9lys\u00e9e Montmartre, where inside, guests discovered rooms decorated with walls of decaying flowers.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>According to the release, this was Margiela\u2019s tribute to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/raf-simons\"><span>Raf Simons\u2019<\/span><\/a><span> 2012 Dior couture debut set design \u2013 the brand even used the same florist, Mark Colle. Like Simons, Margiela and its creative director <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/glenn-martens\"><span>Glenn Martens<\/span><\/a><span> are Belgian, and supposedly, this set design was a tribute to their fellow compatriot. Unlike Simons\u2019 set however, the distinct difference was that the flowers were no longer full of life; they were hanging off the walls, wilted and thirsty, as if the Dior flowers had been left to rot all these years.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>\u201cThe set concept follows our on-going founding interest in replication and our deep <\/span><span>love of fashion,\u201d read the show notes. The flower theme continued into the clothes, now immortalised as vibrant, blossoming prints \u2013 some leaning towards 60s psychedelia. Even the invite contained flowers: a small silver lapel pin holding three peonies.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Each look\u2019s construction played with elements of hard and soft. The most literal example was one sweeping white gown, decorated with crushed metal cans and silverware, like a makeshift suit of armour. Elsewhere, softly draped dresses seemed to burst open at the chest, revealing a corset in a contrasting structured fabric. Every look seemed like it had glitched on the way out \u2013 like something was off (deliberately), whether that was highlighter orange trainers, a random full beat of drag-style makeup or coat linings that became the dress. Interestingly, emerging London designer <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/70995\/1\/petra-fagerstrom-ss27-london-fashion-week-lfw-ai-trad-wives\"><span>Petra Fagerstr\u00f6m did the same thing<\/span><\/a><span> at her show last week.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>If this show contemplated <\/span><em><span>HARD and SOFT<\/span><\/em><span>, then perhaps for Martens, Dior\u2019s 2012 collection is the epitome of softness in fashion. And when remixed with a \u2018tailleur\u2019 edge, you get Margiela. Either that, or he\u2019s a huge fan of Billie Eilish\u2019s <\/span><em><span>Hit Me Hard and Soft. <\/span><\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. 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FW26 Campaign\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-72-2446-1630\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/5\/1455817.png\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">JISOO conquers the elements in Salomon&#8217;s winter campaign<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/beauty\/article\/71064\/1\/cultural-art-history-pubic-hair-bush-women-feminism\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"The beauty of the bush\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/4\/1434212.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Beauty<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Pubic enemy: The controversial history of the bush<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/art-photography\/article\/71059\/1\/john-yuyi-nude-aeroplane-bathroom-selfies-mode-zine-nudes\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Yuyi, Airplane Mode 2\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-187-2999-1999\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/5\/1455860.jpeg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Art &amp; Photography<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">John Yuyi\u2019s new zine chronicles her nude aeroplane selfies<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71062\/1\/julie-kegels-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-lvmh-prize\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Julie Kegels SS27\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/0-154-1362-908\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456140.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">In pictures: Julie Kegels SS27 wasn\u2019t bowed by the weight of expectation<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71065\/1\/hodkova-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-sea-inspired-show-ocean\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Hodakova SS27\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/102-133-1206-804\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456190.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Fashion<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">It\u2019s plain sailing at Hodkova\u2019s SS27 sea-inspired show<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/71014\/1\/extra-geography-galaxie-clear-marni-duggan-molly-manners-new-film-interview-2026\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Image 1_ Minna (Galaxie Clear) and Flic (Marni Dug\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/117-0-2859-1906\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/4\/1454916.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Film &amp; TV<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Extra Geography: A teen comedy about the messiness of female friendship<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"split-rail-card card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/music\/article\/71063\/1\/don-t-call-it-k-pop-the-future-faces-of-east-asian-music\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__img-wrapper card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"IMG_9454\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/640\/217-113-2183-1455\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456163.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"split-rail-card__content card-latest__content\"><span class=\"split-rail-card__ribbon card-latest__ribbon\">Music<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"split-rail-card__title card-latest__title\">Don\u2019t call it K-pop: The future faces of East Asian music<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline\" data-newsletter hidden>\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-12-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Maison Margiela SS27<\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/0\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456236.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/1\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456237.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/2\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456238.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/3\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456239.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/4\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"1333\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-2000-1333\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456240.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/37497\/5\/maison-margiela-ss27\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Maison Margiela SS27\" class=\"img\" height=\"303\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-455-303\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456241.jpg\" width=\"455\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 12 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Two of the biggest shows on the Paris Fashion Week schedule took place this afternoon (September 29), and strangely, there were clear crossovers between them. Both <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\"><span>Dior<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maison-martin-margiela\"><span>Margiela\u2019s<\/span><\/a><span> collections were inspired by contrasting \u2018flou\u2019 and \u2018tailleur\u2019 techniques. In couture, flou focuses on soft, free-flowing silhouettes, whereas tailleur uses rigid, structured tailoring, created with heavier materials. At Dior, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jonathan-anderson\"><span>Jonathan Anderson<\/span><\/a><span> turned typically tailleur-made garments (jackets, shirts and trousers) into floating designs that would usually be made by Le Flou \u2013 the department of an atelier where dresses are made.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Later this afternoon, Margiela\u2019s SS27 show was titled <\/span><em><span>HARD and SOFT, <\/span><\/em><span>in direct reference to the juxtaposing design techniques. Both Margiela and Dior referred to \u2018flou\u2019 in their show notes, which <\/span><span>wasn\u2019t the only unexpected crossover this week. The<\/span><span> Margiela show took place at L\u2019\u00c9lys\u00e9e Montmartre, where inside, guests discovered rooms decorated with walls of decaying flowers.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>According to the release, this was Margiela\u2019s tribute to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/raf-simons\"><span>Raf Simons\u2019<\/span><\/a><span> 2012 Dior couture debut set design \u2013 the brand even used the same florist, Mark Colle. Like Simons, Margiela and its creative director <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/glenn-martens\"><span>Glenn Martens<\/span><\/a><span> are Belgian, and supposedly, this set design was a tribute to their fellow compatriot. Unlike Simons\u2019 set however, the distinct difference was that the flowers were no longer full of life; they were hanging off the walls, wilted and thirsty, as if the Dior flowers had been left to rot all these years.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>\u201cThe set concept follows our on-going founding interest in replication and our deep <\/span><span>love of fashion,\u201d read the show notes. The flower theme continued into the clothes, now immortalised as vibrant, blossoming prints \u2013 some leaning towards 60s psychedelia. Even the invite contained flowers: a small silver lapel pin holding three peonies.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Each look\u2019s construction played with elements of hard and soft. The most literal example was one sweeping white gown, decorated with crushed metal cans and silverware, like a makeshift suit of armour. Elsewhere, softly draped dresses seemed to burst open at the chest, revealing a corset in a contrasting structured fabric. Every look seemed like it had glitched on the way out \u2013 like something was off (deliberately), whether that was highlighter orange trainers, a random full beat of drag-style makeup or coat linings that became the dress. Interestingly, emerging London designer <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/70995\/1\/petra-fagerstrom-ss27-london-fashion-week-lfw-ai-trad-wives\"><span>Petra Fagerstr\u00f6m did the same thing<\/span><\/a><span> at her show last week.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>If this show contemplated <\/span><em><span>HARD and SOFT<\/span><\/em><span>, then perhaps for Martens, Dior\u2019s 2012 collection is the epitome of softness in fashion. And when remixed with a \u2018tailleur\u2019 edge, you get Margiela. Either that, or he\u2019s a huge fan of Billie Eilish\u2019s <\/span><em><span>Hit Me Hard and Soft. <\/span><\/em><span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>[analyse_source url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/71076\/1\/maison-margiela-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-glenn-martens-dior-raf-simons&#8221;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/173-128-1657-1104\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/6\/1456248.jpg&#8221;] Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images September\u00a0 29,\u00a0 2026 Fashion \/ SS27 Fashion \/ SS27 Glenn Martens gives Raf Simons his flowers at Margiela SS27 At Paris Fashion Week, one Belgian designer paid tribute to another September\u00a0 29,\u00a0 2026 September\u00a0 29,\u00a0 2026 Text Isobel Van Dyke Maison Margiela SS27 Gallery \/ 12 images Two [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[226,76],"class_list":["post-2170427","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-politics","tag-crawlmanager","tag-dazeddigital-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2170427","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2170427"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2170427\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2170427"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2170427"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2170427"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}