{"id":2075378,"date":"2026-08-03T16:39:00","date_gmt":"2026-08-03T13:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2075378"},"modified":"2026-08-03T16:39:00","modified_gmt":"2026-08-03T13:39:00","slug":"does-the-john-galliano-met-gala-prove-that-fashion-is-stuck-in-the-past","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=2075378","title":{"rendered":"Does the John Galliano Met Gala prove that fashion is stuck in the past?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/0-165-1980-1320\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450745.jpg&#8221;]<\/p>\n<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/fashion\/article\/70750\/1\/met-gala-2027-john-galliano-anna-wintour-peak-nostalgia\" data-article-id=\"70750\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-portrait-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img no-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.66\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"GettyImages-954052194\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1280\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450745.jpg\" width=\"1983\"><\/span><\/span><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><time datetime=\"2026-08-03T16:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"03 August 2026\"><span class=\"month\">August<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"3\">3,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><br \/>\n\/<br \/>\n<a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/opinion\">Opinion<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"standard-tag-container\"><a class=\"standard-category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a> \/<br \/>\n<a class=\"standard-series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/opinion\">Opinion<\/a><\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>Does the John Galliano Met Gala prove that fashion is stuck in <span class=\"nowrap\">the past?<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>In an era of peak fashion nostalgia, John Galliano\u2019s 2027 Met retrospective is food for thought \u2013 and <span class=\"nowrap\">our feeds<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-08-03T16:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"03 August 2026\"><span class=\"month\">August<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"3\">3,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-08-03T16:39:00+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"03 August 2026\"><span class=\"month\">August<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"3\">3,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/p>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/isobelvandyke\"><br \/>\nIsobel Van Dyke<br \/>\n<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-31-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Revisiting John Galliano\u2019s greatest <span class=\"nowrap\">Margiela moments<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/0\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"1332\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-256-1998-1332\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380864.jpg\" width=\"1998\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/1\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-189-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380834.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/2\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"1331\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-1997-1331\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380829.jpg\" width=\"1997\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/3\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-413-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380830.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/4\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-93-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380831.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/5\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380832.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 31 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p>It was announced on Friday evening that the theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art\u2019s next fashion exhibition will be <em>John Galliano: Horizons<\/em>. The show is due to open on May 9, 2027, following the annual <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/met-ball\">Met Gala<\/a>. It makes <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/john-galliano\">Galliano<\/a> the third designer to receive a solo Costume Institute exhibition while still alive, after <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/saint-laurent\">Yves Saint Laurent<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/rei-kawakubo\">Rei Kawakubo<\/a> (though Miuccia Prada shared a joint exhibition with Elsa Schiaparelli in 2012).<\/p>\n<p><span>According to <em>The New York Times<\/em>, the Costume Institute\u2019s lead curator, Andrew Bolton, has been considering a Galliano exhibition since 2010, but only started developing it seriously in 2024 \u2013 the same year that the designer showed his critically adored <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/61822\/1\/maison-margiela-john-galliano-paris-couture-artisanal-brassai-madam-bijou-ss24\">Margiela Artisanal collection<\/a>. Reports at the time suggested that a Galliano retrospective had been considered for 2024 but shelved amid concerns about a potential backlash, though Bolton now denies that the delay was caused by the designer\u2019s past. Perhaps not coincidentally, that was the year that Kim Kardashian, Zendaya, Bad Bunny and Gwendoline Christie wore Galliano-designed Maison Margiela on the Met Gala red carpet, while Ariana Grande changed into one of his designs for her performance.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Essentially, this exhibition has been in the works for a while. It\u2019s not pegged to a specific milestone or anniversary; it\u2019s happening because Andrew Bolton and Anna Wintour believe the designer\u2019s influence on fashion is \u201cundeniable\u201d. \u201cThere is no one more deserving of an exhibition of this scale than John Galliano,\u201d <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2026\/07\/31\/style\/met-gala-costume-institute-john-galliano.html\"><span>said<\/span><\/a><span> Wintour. However, regardless of his impact on fashion history, this exhibition was always going to be controversial.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"8806184e-2c61-4875-9029-b49b010cb71f\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450742.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.71\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Zendaya at the Met Gala 2024\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450742.jpg\" width=\"2128\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Zendaya at the Met <span class=\"nowrap\">Gala 2024<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Kevin Mazur\/MG24 via Getty Images for The <span class=\"nowrap\">Met Museum\/Vogue<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>In February 2011, footage emerged of Galliano making racist and antisemitic comments at La Perle bar in Paris. Filmed the previous December, the video surfaced days after his arrest following a separate confrontation at the same venue. He was subsequently fired by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\">Dior<\/a>\u00a0and convicted that September of making racist and antisemitic public insults. While exiled from the fashion industry, he went to rehab and worked with Rabbi Barry Marcus in London and Abe Foxman of the Anti-Defamation League in New York to learn about Jewish history and antisemitism. In 2014, he returned to fashion as creative director of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maison-margiela\">Margiela<\/a>. While much of the fashion industry has welcomed him back, it comes as no surprise that next year\u2019s exhibition has already sparked backlash.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Anticipating that the exhibition would be met with controversy, Bolton has promised that its curation will not evade Galliano\u2019s past. \u201cOur responsibility is neither to celebrate uncritically nor avoid that difficult history, but establish the record honestly, provide context and create the conditions for visitors to make an informed judgment.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Maybe it\u2019s because Wintour and Bolton have been trying to get this retrospective over the line for several years that its timing now feels a little odd. Unlike the Met\u2019s 1983 exhibition, <em>Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design<\/em>, Galliano\u2019s retrospective doesn\u2019t mark a specific moment, but it does arrive against a backdrop of rising antisemitism. So, why is it happening now? Its objective, like that of any good exhibition, will be to educate its visitors. But let\u2019s not forget, it also needs to make money.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"fe7dd305-37d5-4ffc-808f-b49b010db889\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1983\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450744.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.66\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Kate Moss at John Galliano SS94\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450744.jpg\" width=\"1983\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Kate Moss at John <span class=\"nowrap\">Galliano SS94<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photo by PAT\/ARNAL\/Gamma-Rapho via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The Met might be taking us on a trip down memory lane, but it\u2019s also tapping into something very current: nostalgia. Late last year, we published <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69069\/1\/nostalgia-defining-aesthetic-of-the-2020s-king-kylie-2010-swag-tumblr\">this article<\/a>, in which we predicted that nostalgia <\/span><strong>would<\/strong><span> be the defining trend of the 2020s. \u201cKylie Jenner is back on Snapchat and using the name \u201cKing Kylie\u201d again,\u201d writes Eleni Leokadia. \u201cYou just scrolled past a TikTok of a fashion boy meandering about in an outfit only the mind of 2015 Jason Derulo could\u2019ve assembled. The scroll continues, and a 2005 photo of Kate Moss at Glastonbury appears, illustrating the military jacket revival of 2025. It\u2019s not long before you\u2019re confronted by the 2006 \u201cHedi Boy\u201d, lighting up a cigarette in archival Dior Homme.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Not long after this article was published, we kicked off 2026 with countless Instagram dumps dedicated to 2016 and the people we were a decade ago. If you\u2019re a fan of fashion (which, hopefully you are if you\u2019re reading this article), your feed will have become increasingly clogged with forgotten runway moments from the 90s and 00s.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Opening Instagram or TikTok in 2026 is to be reminded of the time Beyonc\u00e9 walked for Tom Ford, Rihanna walked for Dsquared2 or Naomi Campbell fell over in her Vivienne Westwood platforms. Some of today\u2019s most popular fashion influencers are the faceless figures behind archival accounts \u2013 take @mcqueen_vault, @thewestwoodarchives or @tomfordforgucci, for example.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>The red carpet is leaning into nostalgia too. Celebrity stylists now come armed with crowbars, ready to break down the doors of every luxury fashion archive. They dust off rare pieces of fashion history and mould them to fit the narrative of whatever Hollywood blockbuster they\u2019re promoting. But that\u2019s a separate article (which you can read <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/64921\/1\/archive-red-carpet-fashion-kim-kardashian-kylie-jenner-mugler-alexander-mcqueen\"><span>here<\/span><\/a>)<span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>We look back on the runways of the past and moan that fashion will never be as good again. Maybe it won\u2019t. Or maybe it\u2019s just easy to romanticise those eras because their shows were shot on film and there were bigger budgets for theatrics. Either way, John Galliano is the epitome of fashion\u2019s nostalgia. Few designers\u2019 work is as readily romanticised or held in such high regard as his. And for good reason: the man is a creative genius.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"585e6a9c-f1c3-4ddf-bb30-b49b010d1278\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1987\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450743.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.66\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Erin O&apos;Connor at Dior Couture AW05\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450743.jpg\" width=\"1987\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Erin O&#8217;Connor at Dior <span class=\"nowrap\">Couture AW05<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p>From the clothes and set design to the way the models moved across the space, his shows were magic. That talent is central to the difficulty of this exhibition: the work can be extraordinary even when the man behind it remains impossible for many to forgive.\u00a0Many of his fashion shows contain at least one moment that would go viral on social media today. Whether it\u2019s Erin O\u2019Connor climbing out of a carriage at Dior\u2019s AW05 couture show, a steam train (the Diorient Express) pulling into Paris\u2019 Gare d\u2019Austerlitz, or Kate Moss playing the runaway Russian Princess Lucretia.<\/p>\n<p><span>Maybe it\u2019s because the future looks so bleak that we spend all our spare time looking to the past. However, we should be wary, as Leokadia writes: \u201cAn obsession with the past risks a kind of political inertia, diverting attention from the social issues of today and discouraging the formation of new ideas (in this sense, it\u2019s the other side of the coin to AI, both recycling rather than creating, consuming what exists instead of engaging critically or imagining something new).\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>There is a strong case for exhibiting Galliano\u2019s portfolio and confronting his contributions to fashion history. Whether deliberate or not, the exhibition is well positioned to benefit from a moment in which the industry has its head buried in the archives. Could next year\u2019s Met Gala be the grand finale to the 2020\u2019s love affair with nostalgia? Maybe a delicious, John Galliano feast for the eyes is exactly what we need to finally move on.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. 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The controversial new \u2018genre\u2019 making a splash online<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline\" data-newsletter hidden>\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"dazed-gallery has-31-images \">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<header>\n<div class=\"info\"><span class=\"heading\">Revisiting John Galliano\u2019s greatest <span class=\"nowrap\">Margiela moments<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"gallery\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumbs\">\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/0\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"1332\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-256-1998-1332\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380864.jpg\" width=\"1998\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/1\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-189-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380834.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/2\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"1331\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-1997-1331\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380829.jpg\" width=\"1997\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/3\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-413-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380830.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/4\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-93-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380831.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-thumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/33921\/5\/revisiting-john-galliano-s-greatest-margiela-moments\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"John Galliano Maison Margiela runway moments\" class=\"img\" height=\"932\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/320\/0-0-1398-932\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1380\/0\/1380832.jpg\" width=\"1398\"><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"gallery-footer\">Gallery \/ 31 images<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p>It was announced on Friday evening that the theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art\u2019s next fashion exhibition will be <em>John Galliano: Horizons<\/em>. The show is due to open on May 9, 2027, following the annual <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/met-ball\">Met Gala<\/a>. It makes <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/john-galliano\">Galliano<\/a> the third designer to receive a solo Costume Institute exhibition while still alive, after <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/saint-laurent\">Yves Saint Laurent<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/rei-kawakubo\">Rei Kawakubo<\/a> (though Miuccia Prada shared a joint exhibition with Elsa Schiaparelli in 2012).<\/p>\n<p><span>According to <em>The New York Times<\/em>, the Costume Institute\u2019s lead curator, Andrew Bolton, has been considering a Galliano exhibition since 2010, but only started developing it seriously in 2024 \u2013 the same year that the designer showed his critically adored <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/61822\/1\/maison-margiela-john-galliano-paris-couture-artisanal-brassai-madam-bijou-ss24\">Margiela Artisanal collection<\/a>. Reports at the time suggested that a Galliano retrospective had been considered for 2024 but shelved amid concerns about a potential backlash, though Bolton now denies that the delay was caused by the designer\u2019s past. Perhaps not coincidentally, that was the year that Kim Kardashian, Zendaya, Bad Bunny and Gwendoline Christie wore Galliano-designed Maison Margiela on the Met Gala red carpet, while Ariana Grande changed into one of his designs for her performance.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Essentially, this exhibition has been in the works for a while. It\u2019s not pegged to a specific milestone or anniversary; it\u2019s happening because Andrew Bolton and Anna Wintour believe the designer\u2019s influence on fashion is \u201cundeniable\u201d. \u201cThere is no one more deserving of an exhibition of this scale than John Galliano,\u201d <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2026\/07\/31\/style\/met-gala-costume-institute-john-galliano.html\"><span>said<\/span><\/a><span> Wintour. However, regardless of his impact on fashion history, this exhibition was always going to be controversial.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"8806184e-2c61-4875-9029-b49b010cb71f\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/2000\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450742.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.71\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Zendaya at the Met Gala 2024\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450742.jpg\" width=\"2128\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Zendaya at the Met <span class=\"nowrap\">Gala 2024<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Kevin Mazur\/MG24 via Getty Images for The <span class=\"nowrap\">Met Museum\/Vogue<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>In February 2011, footage emerged of Galliano making racist and antisemitic comments at La Perle bar in Paris. Filmed the previous December, the video surfaced days after his arrest following a separate confrontation at the same venue. He was subsequently fired by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\">Dior<\/a>\u00a0and convicted that September of making racist and antisemitic public insults. While exiled from the fashion industry, he went to rehab and worked with Rabbi Barry Marcus in London and Abe Foxman of the Anti-Defamation League in New York to learn about Jewish history and antisemitism. In 2014, he returned to fashion as creative director of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maison-margiela\">Margiela<\/a>. While much of the fashion industry has welcomed him back, it comes as no surprise that next year\u2019s exhibition has already sparked backlash.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Anticipating that the exhibition would be met with controversy, Bolton has promised that its curation will not evade Galliano\u2019s past. \u201cOur responsibility is neither to celebrate uncritically nor avoid that difficult history, but establish the record honestly, provide context and create the conditions for visitors to make an informed judgment.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Maybe it\u2019s because Wintour and Bolton have been trying to get this retrospective over the line for several years that its timing now feels a little odd. Unlike the Met\u2019s 1983 exhibition, <em>Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design<\/em>, Galliano\u2019s retrospective doesn\u2019t mark a specific moment, but it does arrive against a backdrop of rising antisemitism. So, why is it happening now? Its objective, like that of any good exhibition, will be to educate its visitors. But let\u2019s not forget, it also needs to make money.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"fe7dd305-37d5-4ffc-808f-b49b010db889\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1983\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450744.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.66\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Kate Moss at John Galliano SS94\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450744.jpg\" width=\"1983\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Kate Moss at John <span class=\"nowrap\">Galliano SS94<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photo by PAT\/ARNAL\/Gamma-Rapho via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The Met might be taking us on a trip down memory lane, but it\u2019s also tapping into something very current: nostalgia. Late last year, we published <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69069\/1\/nostalgia-defining-aesthetic-of-the-2020s-king-kylie-2010-swag-tumblr\">this article<\/a>, in which we predicted that nostalgia <\/span><strong>would<\/strong><span> be the defining trend of the 2020s. \u201cKylie Jenner is back on Snapchat and using the name \u201cKing Kylie\u201d again,\u201d writes Eleni Leokadia. \u201cYou just scrolled past a TikTok of a fashion boy meandering about in an outfit only the mind of 2015 Jason Derulo could\u2019ve assembled. The scroll continues, and a 2005 photo of Kate Moss at Glastonbury appears, illustrating the military jacket revival of 2025. It\u2019s not long before you\u2019re confronted by the 2006 \u201cHedi Boy\u201d, lighting up a cigarette in archival Dior Homme.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Not long after this article was published, we kicked off 2026 with countless Instagram dumps dedicated to 2016 and the people we were a decade ago. If you\u2019re a fan of fashion (which, hopefully you are if you\u2019re reading this article), your feed will have become increasingly clogged with forgotten runway moments from the 90s and 00s.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Opening Instagram or TikTok in 2026 is to be reminded of the time Beyonc\u00e9 walked for Tom Ford, Rihanna walked for Dsquared2 or Naomi Campbell fell over in her Vivienne Westwood platforms. Some of today\u2019s most popular fashion influencers are the faceless figures behind archival accounts \u2013 take @mcqueen_vault, @thewestwoodarchives or @tomfordforgucci, for example.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>The red carpet is leaning into nostalgia too. Celebrity stylists now come armed with crowbars, ready to break down the doors of every luxury fashion archive. They dust off rare pieces of fashion history and mould them to fit the narrative of whatever Hollywood blockbuster they\u2019re promoting. But that\u2019s a separate article (which you can read <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/64921\/1\/archive-red-carpet-fashion-kim-kardashian-kylie-jenner-mugler-alexander-mcqueen\"><span>here<\/span><\/a>)<span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>We look back on the runways of the past and moan that fashion will never be as good again. Maybe it won\u2019t. Or maybe it\u2019s just easy to romanticise those eras because their shows were shot on film and there were bigger budgets for theatrics. Either way, John Galliano is the epitome of fashion\u2019s nostalgia. Few designers\u2019 work is as readily romanticised or held in such high regard as his. And for good reason: the man is a creative genius.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"585e6a9c-f1c3-4ddf-bb30-b49b010d1278\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1987\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450743.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.66\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Erin O&apos;Connor at Dior Couture AW05\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450743.jpg\" width=\"1987\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Erin O&#8217;Connor at Dior <span class=\"nowrap\">Couture AW05<\/span><\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p>From the clothes and set design to the way the models moved across the space, his shows were magic. That talent is central to the difficulty of this exhibition: the work can be extraordinary even when the man behind it remains impossible for many to forgive.\u00a0Many of his fashion shows contain at least one moment that would go viral on social media today. Whether it\u2019s Erin O\u2019Connor climbing out of a carriage at Dior\u2019s AW05 couture show, a steam train (the Diorient Express) pulling into Paris\u2019 Gare d\u2019Austerlitz, or Kate Moss playing the runaway Russian Princess Lucretia.<\/p>\n<p><span>Maybe it\u2019s because the future looks so bleak that we spend all our spare time looking to the past. However, we should be wary, as Leokadia writes: \u201cAn obsession with the past risks a kind of political inertia, diverting attention from the social issues of today and discouraging the formation of new ideas (in this sense, it\u2019s the other side of the coin to AI, both recycling rather than creating, consuming what exists instead of engaging critically or imagining something new).\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>There is a strong case for exhibiting Galliano\u2019s portfolio and confronting his contributions to fashion history. Whether deliberate or not, the exhibition is well positioned to benefit from a moment in which the industry has its head buried in the archives. Could next year\u2019s Met Gala be the grand finale to the 2020\u2019s love affair with nostalgia? Maybe a delicious, John Galliano feast for the eyes is exactly what we need to finally move on.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>[analyse_source url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/70750\/1\/met-gala-2027-john-galliano-anna-wintour-peak-nostalgia&#8221;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/0-165-1980-1320\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1450\/0\/1450745.jpg&#8221;] August\u00a0 3,\u00a0 2026 Fashion \/ Opinion Fashion \/ Opinion Does the John Galliano Met Gala prove that fashion is stuck in the past? In an era of peak fashion nostalgia, John Galliano\u2019s 2027 Met retrospective is food for thought \u2013 and our feeds August\u00a0 3,\u00a0 2026 August\u00a0 3,\u00a0 2026 Text Isobel Van [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[226,76],"class_list":["post-2075378","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-politics","tag-crawlmanager","tag-dazeddigital-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2075378","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2075378"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2075378\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2075378"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2075378"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2075378"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}