{"id":1793062,"date":"2026-02-25T18:46:59","date_gmt":"2026-02-25T15:46:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1793062"},"modified":"2026-02-25T18:46:59","modified_gmt":"2026-02-25T15:46:59","slug":"we-should-all-be-fetishists-unpacking-maria-grazia-chiuris-fendi-debut","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1793062","title":{"rendered":"We Should All Be Fetishists: Unpacking Maria Grazia Chiuri\u2019s Fendi debut"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/90-173-1909-1273\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439022.jpg&#8221;]<\/p>\n<article class=\"main-article standard \">\n<div class=\"article-main-content article-wrapper has-media-but-its-an-image\" data-status=\"loaded\" data-primary-article=\"true\" data-url=\"\/fashion\/article\/69752\/1\/fendi-aw26-fw26-maria-grazia-chiuri-milan-fashion-week-mfw\" data-article-id=\"69752\">\n<header class=\"article-header has-portrait-image no-media\">\n<div class=\"wrapper dg-max-width\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<figure class=\"main-img has-figcaption\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\" data-template=\"Standard Article\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Fendi AW26\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1280\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439022.jpg\" width=\"2000\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"inner\"><span class=\"credit\">Photography Miguel Medina\/AFP via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<aside class=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"inner\"><time datetime=\"2026-02-25T18:46:59+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"25 February 2026\"><span class=\"month\">February<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"25\">25,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"titles\">\n<div class=\"tags\">\n<div class=\"sections\"><a class=\"category vertical - fashion\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a><br \/>\n\/<br \/>\n<a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/what-went-down\">What Went Down<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"standard-tag-container\"><a class=\"standard-category\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\">Fashion<\/a> \/<br \/>\n<a class=\"standard-series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/what-went-down\">What Went Down<\/a><\/div>\n<h1 class=\"title\"><span>We Should All Be Fetishists: Unpacking Maria Grazia Chiuri\u2019s <span class=\"nowrap\">Fendi debut<\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n<div class=\"standfirst\">\n<h2>For her AW26 collection, Chiuri introduced us to an edgier side of her design language \u2013 focusing on a \u2018return to desire and <span class=\"nowrap\">to bodies\u2019<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-02-25T18:46:59+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"25 February 2026\"><span class=\"month\">February<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"25\">25,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><time datetime=\"2026-02-25T18:46:59+00:00\" class=\"timestamp\" title=\"25 February 2026\"><span class=\"month\">February<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"day\" data-day=\"25\">25,<\/span>\u00a0<br \/>\n<span class=\"year\">2026<\/span><\/time><\/p>\n<div class=\"providers\">\n<div class=\"contributors\"><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/isobelvandyke\">Isobel Van Dyke<\/a><\/span><span class=\"contributor\" data-contributor-role=\"Text\"><span class=\"contributor-role\">Text<\/span><a class=\"contributor-name\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/user\/ElliotHoste\">Elliot Hoste<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"article-body-container\">\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maria-grazia-chiuri\"><span>Maria Grazia Chiuri\u2019s<\/span><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fendi\"><span>Fendi<\/span><\/a><span> is here. After much anticipation, the Roman designer made her debut at the Italian fashion house today (February 25), with a show held at the brand\u2019s Milan headquarters on Via Solari. Chiuri was <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/68801\/1\/fendi-maria-grazia-chiuri-new-creative-director-announcement\"><span>announced<\/span><\/a><span> as Fendi\u2019s new creative director last October, following the departure of Silvia Venturini Fendi, and joined the brand after a nine-year stint at <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\"><span>Dior<\/span><\/a><span>, where she was replaced by <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jonathan-anderson\"><span>Jonathan Anderson<\/span><\/a><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>In the days before today\u2019s show, Chiuri caused quite the commotion online \u2013 sparking a debate over the first glimpse of her Fendi vision. Yesterday, the brand released a teaser image showing a close-up of a man\u2019s hands firmly holding a model\u2019s ankles while she stood on a chair. It\u2019s based on a similar image taken by Jo Ann Callis, which the American photographer recreated for Fendi.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>On social media, the fashion crowd was quick to point out Chiuri\u2019s erotic new direction at Fendi. The reaction was mixed: some people argued that that image could be seen as disempowering, others compared it to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tom-ford\"><span>Tom Ford<\/span><\/a><span>\u2019s 00s <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/gucci\"><span>Gucci<\/span><\/a><span> campaigns, and some made the valid point that Callis is known for her explorations of womanhood, motherhood, restriction and domestic tension. But was the show itself as sexy as predicted? Here\u2019s what went down\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE GUESTS WERE ON THEME<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>As an Italian fashion house showing during Milan Fashion Week, if you could pick anyone to sit front row at your show, it would likely be silver screen icon Monica Bellucci. In keeping with the theme of the collection, Bellucci\u2019s most famous role is arguably <\/span><em><span>Mal\u00e8na,<\/span><\/em><span> in which she plays a war widow who becomes the subject of intense sexual desire. Next to her sat Uma Thurman \u2013 acting royalty in her own right, who also dipped her toe into the world of kink with a small role in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/lars-von-trier\">Lars von Trier<\/a>\u2019s<\/span><em><span> Nymphomaniac.<\/span><\/em><span> Elsewhere, we spotted Dakota Fanning, Stray Kids\u2019 Bang Chan and Chinese actress Tiffany Tang.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE SHOW SPACE WAS STRIPPED BARE <\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Fendi has a reputation for vibrant colours and rich materials, as evidenced by its 100-year history, but this season seemed to suggest Chiuri wanted to strip this all back. Yes, there was the suggestive teaser image by Callis, all tanned skin and shiny leather pumps, but then we also caught a glimpse of the show space and this all but confirmed our suspicions. Rather than the detailed sets we\u2019re used to seeing, AW26 was practically an industrial concrete box, with exposed Edison lights hanging from the ceiling and the phrase \u2018Less I, more us\u2019 in huge black letters on the floor. So far, all signs pointed to a stripped-back and sexier rendering of Fendi.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>BDSM ON THE BRAIN<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Clearly, Chiuri has been spending a lot of time at the cinema lately. In the past two years, we\u2019ve seen a wave of movies that include elements of BDSM. Unlike <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/69651\/1\/wuthering-heights-round-table-review-dazed-team-emerald-fennell-jacob-elordi\"><span>the Dazed team<\/span><\/a><span>, perhaps the designer loved <\/span><em><span>Wuthering Heights<\/span><\/em><span>, or felt inspired by Alexander Skarsg\u00e5rd\u2019s performance in <\/span><em><span>Pillion<\/span><\/em><span> (one leather moto jacket would suggest so). Perhaps it was <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nicole_Kidman\"><span>Nicole Kidman<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/harris-dickinson\"><span>Harris Dickinson<\/span><\/a><span> in 2024\u2019s <\/span><em><span>Babygirl <\/span><\/em><span>that set Chiuri\u2019s imagination alight. Although it wasn\u2019t overt, there was a sexually inquisitive undercurrent to her Fendi debut. It might have been light on the BDSM, but it was heavy on the leather, lace and chokers.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>50 SHADES OF LITTLE BLACK DRESS<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The opening look was a demure black button-up day dress, shrouded by a loose suit jacket and paired with glossy stiletto heels. Black remained the main shade throughout, but was occasionally punctuated with crimson, ivory, gold and tiger print. Chiuri stayed true to the spaghetti straps and transparent tulle that were a signature of her Dior era, but added new flourishes like leather chokers and floating white collars. There were a lot of suits \u2013 mostly traditional and all black \u2013 telling us that the Fendi woman is a city girl who likely works in a high-rise and loves binging <\/span><em><span>Industry. <\/span><\/em><span>She might also enjoy the 2002 film <\/span><em><span>Secretary.\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span>Occasionally, a pair of platformed heels with perspex soles would appear, not dissimilar to the shape of pole dancing heels. There were laser-cut leather dresses, see-through lace dresses, slinky hooded dresses \u2013 basically, a black dress for every occasion. As well as collars, which are often used as a symbol of submission in BDSM relationships, some models wore silver dog tag necklaces. Though it wasn\u2019t a collection that came with a message as clear as \u201cWe Should All Be Feminists\u201d, did this collection, in its own subtle way, suggest that we should all be fetishists?<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>A RETURN TO DESIRE<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"8d41f1e6-fe21-4f74-a99f-b3fc01346814\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1999\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439088.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Fendi AW26\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439088.jpg\" width=\"1999\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Fendi AW26<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Estrop via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>In notes mailed out after the show, Chiuri revealed her inspirations for this new era of Fendi, confirming what we\u2019d gleaned from the collection. \u201cThere is a fundamental element: the return to desire and to bodies\u2026 at a time in which less and less attention is being paid to the more earthly and original impulses of those bodies,\u201d it read. The notes then went on to suggest how clothing can be used to communicate those desires, \u201cnot to control them but to accommodate them, go along with them, make them visible.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Elsewhere, Chiuri noted that this season\u2019s jewellery was a collaboration with Italian sculptor Mirella Bentivoglio, while she also teamed up with artist SAGG Napoli for the collection\u2019s graphic tees and slogan football scarves. As the name of the show \u2013 <em>Less I, More Us<\/em> \u2013 suggests, Chiuri\u2019s tenure at Fendi will be a collaborative effort, for women and led by women.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. 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href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/maria-grazia-chiuri\">Maria Grazia Chiuri<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/milan\">Milan<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/fashion-week\">fashion-week<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/mfw\">MFW<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/bdsm\">BDSM<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/kink\">kink<\/a><a class=\"series\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/uma-thurman\">Uma Thurman<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/footer>\n<div class=\"grid\">\n<div class=\"lava-lamp\">\n<div class=\"lava-lamp-text-container\">\n<h3 class=\"lava-lamp-subheading\">Expand your creative community and connect with 15,000 creatives from around the world.<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"grid section-header\">\n<div class=\"section-header__link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69752\/1\/fashion\"><\/p>\n<h2 class=\"section-header__title\">READ MORE<\/h2>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"grid tag-article-list\">\n<div class=\"swiper swiper-latest\">\n<div class=\"swiper-wrapper\">\n<div class=\"swiper-slide list-element\">\n<div class=\"scard-latest__section\">\n<div class=\"card-latest__wrapper\"><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69720\/1\/four-names-to-know-from-fashion-hong-kongs-aw26-lfw-takeover-soho-angus-tsui\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"optional-paragraph\">Fashion Hong Kong<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Angus Tsui\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/0-324-2000-1330\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/8\/1438488.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">4 names to know from Fashion Hong Kong\u2019s AW26 LFW takeover<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69744\/1\/ganni-harley-weir-spring-summer-2026-maggie-maurer\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"optional-paragraph\"> GANNI<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"GANNI_SS26-CAMPAIGN_4X5_1\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/0-610-2399-1596\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/8\/1438662.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">GANNI is yearning for a dreamy summer \u2013 and so are we <\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69696\/1\/karoline-vitto-interview-aw26-newgen-pull-and-bear-bfc\"><\/p>\n<div 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Berlin<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69562\/1\/reeboks-classics-garment-leather-new-karol-g\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"optional-paragraph\"> Reebok <\/p>\n<p><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"SS26_T2-Classics_NYC_Photo-Library-024\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/0-2-2822-1877\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/6\/1436935.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">Your favourite Reeboks are getting a makeover<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"swiper-slide list-element\">\n<div class=\"scard-latest__section\">\n<div class=\"card-latest__wrapper\"><a class=\"card-latest\" 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src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/0-236-1334-887\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/8\/1438569.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">Thinness culture met its match at Karoline Vitto AW26<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69726\/1\/figure-skating-aw26-london-fashion-week-milan-winter-olympics-alysa-liu-2026\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Gabe Gordon AW26\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/65-78-2163-1439\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/7\/1437546.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">How figure skating became the coldest trend of AW26<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"swiper-slide list-element\">\n<div class=\"scard-latest__section\">\n<div class=\"card-latest__wrapper\"><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69718\/1\/americas-next-top-model-antm-tyra-banks-netflix-documentary\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Tyra Banks ANTM\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/21-397-1987-1322\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/8\/1438516.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">Has the fashion industry really changed since America\u2019s Next Top Model?<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69559\/1\/karol-g-fronts-reebok-classics-new-era-renell-medrano\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\">\n<p class=\"optional-paragraph\"> Reebok <\/p>\n<p><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"711648\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/0-2-3000-1995\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/6\/1436438.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">Karol G fronts Reebok Classics\u2019 new era<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><a class=\"card-latest\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69711\/1\/fashion-east-aw26-fw26-london-fashion-week-lfw\"><\/p>\n<div class=\"card-latest__img-wrapper\"><span class=\"image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"landscape\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Fashion East AW26\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/480\/59-22-780-519\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/8\/1438351.jpg\"><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"card-latest__content\">\n<h3 class=\"card-latest__title\">Fashion East AW26 took us on a treasure hunt to south London<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline\" data-newsletter hidden>\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<div class=\"article-body wrapper\">\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/maria-grazia-chiuri\"><span>Maria Grazia Chiuri\u2019s<\/span><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fendi\"><span>Fendi<\/span><\/a><span> is here. After much anticipation, the Roman designer made her debut at the Italian fashion house today (February 25), with a show held at the brand\u2019s Milan headquarters on Via Solari. Chiuri was <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/68801\/1\/fendi-maria-grazia-chiuri-new-creative-director-announcement\"><span>announced<\/span><\/a><span> as Fendi\u2019s new creative director last October, following the departure of Silvia Venturini Fendi, and joined the brand after a nine-year stint at <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/dior\"><span>Dior<\/span><\/a><span>, where she was replaced by <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/jonathan-anderson\"><span>Jonathan Anderson<\/span><\/a><span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>In the days before today\u2019s show, Chiuri caused quite the commotion online \u2013 sparking a debate over the first glimpse of her Fendi vision. Yesterday, the brand released a teaser image showing a close-up of a man\u2019s hands firmly holding a model\u2019s ankles while she stood on a chair. It\u2019s based on a similar image taken by Jo Ann Callis, which the American photographer recreated for Fendi.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>On social media, the fashion crowd was quick to point out Chiuri\u2019s erotic new direction at Fendi. The reaction was mixed: some people argued that that image could be seen as disempowering, others compared it to <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tom-ford\"><span>Tom Ford<\/span><\/a><span>\u2019s 00s <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/gucci\"><span>Gucci<\/span><\/a><span> campaigns, and some made the valid point that Callis is known for her explorations of womanhood, motherhood, restriction and domestic tension. But was the show itself as sexy as predicted? Here\u2019s what went down\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE GUESTS WERE ON THEME<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>As an Italian fashion house showing during Milan Fashion Week, if you could pick anyone to sit front row at your show, it would likely be silver screen icon Monica Bellucci. In keeping with the theme of the collection, Bellucci\u2019s most famous role is arguably <\/span><em><span>Mal\u00e8na,<\/span><\/em><span> in which she plays a war widow who becomes the subject of intense sexual desire. Next to her sat Uma Thurman \u2013 acting royalty in her own right, who also dipped her toe into the world of kink with a small role in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/tag\/lars-von-trier\">Lars von Trier<\/a>\u2019s<\/span><em><span> Nymphomaniac.<\/span><\/em><span> Elsewhere, we spotted Dakota Fanning, Stray Kids\u2019 Bang Chan and Chinese actress Tiffany Tang.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>THE SHOW SPACE WAS STRIPPED BARE <\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Fendi has a reputation for vibrant colours and rich materials, as evidenced by its 100-year history, but this season seemed to suggest Chiuri wanted to strip this all back. Yes, there was the suggestive teaser image by Callis, all tanned skin and shiny leather pumps, but then we also caught a glimpse of the show space and this all but confirmed our suspicions. Rather than the detailed sets we\u2019re used to seeing, AW26 was practically an industrial concrete box, with exposed Edison lights hanging from the ceiling and the phrase \u2018Less I, more us\u2019 in huge black letters on the floor. So far, all signs pointed to a stripped-back and sexier rendering of Fendi.<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>BDSM ON THE BRAIN<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>Clearly, Chiuri has been spending a lot of time at the cinema lately. In the past two years, we\u2019ve seen a wave of movies that include elements of BDSM. Unlike <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/film-tv\/article\/69651\/1\/wuthering-heights-round-table-review-dazed-team-emerald-fennell-jacob-elordi\"><span>the Dazed team<\/span><\/a><span>, perhaps the designer loved <\/span><em><span>Wuthering Heights<\/span><\/em><span>, or felt inspired by Alexander Skarsg\u00e5rd\u2019s performance in <\/span><em><span>Pillion<\/span><\/em><span> (one leather moto jacket would suggest so). Perhaps it was <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nicole_Kidman\"><span>Nicole Kidman<\/span><\/a><span> and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/harris-dickinson\"><span>Harris Dickinson<\/span><\/a><span> in 2024\u2019s <\/span><em><span>Babygirl <\/span><\/em><span>that set Chiuri\u2019s imagination alight. Although it wasn\u2019t overt, there was a sexually inquisitive undercurrent to her Fendi debut. It might have been light on the BDSM, but it was heavy on the leather, lace and chokers.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>50 SHADES OF LITTLE BLACK DRESS<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"instagram-container embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"media-instagram\" data-script-depends=\"instagram-embeds\">\n<script async src=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/div>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>The opening look was a demure black button-up day dress, shrouded by a loose suit jacket and paired with glossy stiletto heels. Black remained the main shade throughout, but was occasionally punctuated with crimson, ivory, gold and tiger print. Chiuri stayed true to the spaghetti straps and transparent tulle that were a signature of her Dior era, but added new flourishes like leather chokers and floating white collars. There were a lot of suits \u2013 mostly traditional and all black \u2013 telling us that the Fendi woman is a city girl who likely works in a high-rise and loves binging <\/span><em><span>Industry. <\/span><\/em><span>She might also enjoy the 2002 film <\/span><em><span>Secretary.\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span>Occasionally, a pair of platformed heels with perspex soles would appear, not dissimilar to the shape of pole dancing heels. There were laser-cut leather dresses, see-through lace dresses, slinky hooded dresses \u2013 basically, a black dress for every occasion. As well as collars, which are often used as a symbol of submission in BDSM relationships, some models wore silver dog tag necklaces. Though it wasn\u2019t a collection that came with a message as clear as \u201cWe Should All Be Feminists\u201d, did this collection, in its own subtle way, suggest that we should all be fetishists?<\/span><\/p>\n<h1><span>A RETURN TO DESIRE<\/span><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"inline-img expandable dev-view-hide\" data-img=\"8d41f1e6-fe21-4f74-a99f-b3fc01346814\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1999\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439088.jpg\" data-img-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\" data-img-aspect-ratio=\"0.67\"><span class=\"has-css-custom-props image-container\" data-aspect-ratio-type=\"portrait\"><span class=\"preserve-aspect-ratio\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Fendi AW26\" class=\"img\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/786\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439088.jpg\" width=\"1999\"><\/span><\/span><figcaption class=\"img-caption\"><span class=\"caption\">Fendi AW26<\/span><span class=\"credit\">Photography Estrop via <span class=\"nowrap\">Getty Images<\/span><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"embed-content\" data-embed-type=\"raw-html\">\n<p><span>In notes mailed out after the show, Chiuri revealed her inspirations for this new era of Fendi, confirming what we\u2019d gleaned from the collection. \u201cThere is a fundamental element: the return to desire and to bodies\u2026 at a time in which less and less attention is being paid to the more earthly and original impulses of those bodies,\u201d it read. The notes then went on to suggest how clothing can be used to communicate those desires, \u201cnot to control them but to accommodate them, go along with them, make them visible.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Elsewhere, Chiuri noted that this season\u2019s jewellery was a collaboration with Italian sculptor Mirella Bentivoglio, while she also teamed up with artist SAGG Napoli for the collection\u2019s graphic tees and slogan football scarves. As the name of the show \u2013 <em>Less I, More Us<\/em> \u2013 suggests, Chiuri\u2019s tenure at Fendi will be a collaborative effort, for women and led by women.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"newsletter-inline-last\">\n<div class=\"newsletter-small\">\n<div class=\"inner\">\n<h1 class=\"newsletter-title\">Escape the algorithm! Get The Drop<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-row\">\n<p class=\"meta\">Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"confirmation\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p class=\"confirmation-title\">Thank you. You have been subscribed<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/privacy-policy\" class=\"meta-link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nPrivacy policy<br \/>\n<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>[analyse_source url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/69752\/1\/fendi-aw26-fw26-maria-grazia-chiuri-milan-fashion-week-mfw&#8221;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[analyse_image type=&#8221;featured&#8221; src=&#8221;https:\/\/images-prod.dazeddigital.com\/1200\/90-173-1909-1273\/azure\/dazed-prod\/1430\/9\/1439022.jpg&#8221;] Photography Miguel Medina\/AFP via Getty Images February\u00a0 25,\u00a0 2026 Fashion \/ What Went Down Fashion \/ What Went Down We Should All Be Fetishists: Unpacking Maria Grazia Chiuri\u2019s Fendi debut For her AW26 collection, Chiuri introduced us to an edgier side of her design language \u2013 focusing on a \u2018return to desire [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[226,76],"class_list":["post-1793062","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-politics","tag-crawlmanager","tag-dazeddigital-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1793062","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1793062"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1793062\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1793062"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1793062"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1793062"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}