{"id":1761351,"date":"2026-02-11T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-02-10T21:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1761351"},"modified":"2026-02-11T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2026-02-10T21:00:00","slug":"wonderland-29","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1761351","title":{"rendered":"Wonderland"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

\n\t\t
\n\t\t\tWonderland<\/span>
\n<\/span>
\n<\/span>
\n\t\t<\/a>
\n\t<\/h1>\n
\n

\n\t\t\tANNE SOFIE MADSEN ISN\u2019T SCARED OF GHOSTS<\/span>
\n\t\t<\/h2>\n<\/section>\n
\n
\n

For the brand\u2019s second show on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar under the NewGen umbrella, Anne Sofie Madsen and newly appointed co-creative director Caroline Clante lean into the persistence of a lost future \u2013 finding beauty in the macabre as they cement themselves as collaborative masterminds and one of the most compelling names emerging from the Nordics right now.<\/h3>\n
\n
\"Anne
Courtesy of Anne Sofie Madsen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Last season, rat-shaped bags scurried down the runway at Anne Sofie Madsen during Copenhagen Fashion Week<\/a>. This January, it was UGG boots \u2013 naturally, with a twist. Metal bear claws protruded from the toes; belts coiled around calves; airbrushed, phantasmagoric forms warped the familiar shearling silhouette. It\u2019s practically a house signature at this point: who doesn\u2019t love a slightly freakish accessory? And yet they never overwhelm. Instead, they perform as scene-stealing supporting actors to the brand\u2019s obtuse shoulders, surgically precise drapery and those extremely covetable jackets that have become an ASM calling card.<\/p>\n

For AW26, however, the macabre carried a different gravity. Presented inside a historic Freemasons\u2019 hall \u2013 owned by a male society for over a century and partially destroyed by fire in the 90s \u2013 the collection unfolded as a meditation on a haunted, aborted future. Aptly titled Ghostly Matters<\/em>, it found poetry in neglect. \u201cIt\u2019s a place nobody has actually paid attention to for, I mean, eight years,\u201d Madsen tells us the morning after the show. Just hours earlier, we had been seated beneath the cracked ceilings of the once-regal building in central Copenhagen. \u201cWe liked how the place is supposed to look fine, but it\u2019s super trashy \u2013 golden chairs in plastic, scratched floors, slightly abandoned.\u201d<\/p>\n

Soundtracked by Copenhagen-based neo-punk band Wedding (yes, that\u2019s really their name) the collection continued a narrative first introduced at Madsen\u2019s NewGen debut two seasons ago. This time, though, there\u2019s a palpable shift. With Clante now installed as co-creative director, the brand is visibly flexing new muscles.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Anne
Photography by James Cochrane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n
\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

\u201cI think because we\u2019re both holding full-time jobs, it was quite difficult to actually begin this collection. Research felt tough this season,\u201d Clante explains, reflecting on the early stages of AW26. \u201cAnd there was something about the state of the world that made creativity feel harder,\u201d Madsen adds. \u201cMaybe it\u2019s these diminished horizons \u2013 or as we wrote in the press text, the ghost of the future that felt promised but will probably never arrive \u2013 that became the inspiration.\u201d<\/p>\n

For some designers, that kind of conceptual provocation can feel like a cerebral obstacle course. Here, it permeated everything. At times literal \u2013 spectral prints scrawled across tees \u2013 and at others more insidious, particularly in their exploration of shapewear, one of the season\u2019s most compelling through-lines. \u201cShapewear is neither garment nor body. It exists somewhere in between,\u201d Madsen says. \u201cAnd that in-between space feels very ghostly.\u201d She pauses. \u201cIt\u2019s also made from plastic, but after a few hours it takes on the smell of flesh. It becomes artificial and bodily at the same time. That tension makes it interesting.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Anne<\/figure>\n

Shapewear appeared as foundation, underpinning dresses and acting as the base layer for the label\u2019s signature drapery, but also as structure, forming exoskeletal tops that encased the models\u2019 torsos. The show notes described it as a play between \u201ccompression and volume, containment and expansion\u201d \u2013 a push-pull that defined the collection\u2019s silhouette.<\/p>\n

Elsewhere, the supernatural surfaced through blankets reimagined as garments. \u201cWhen you dress as a ghost, you wear a blanket,\u201d Clante notes. Translated into skirts, dresses and duffel coats, the motif became a surprisingly elevated outerwear proposition. Roses \u2013 painstakingly applied throughout \u2013 nodded to Scandinavian folklore and the symbolism of vanitas painting, where beauty and decay coexist in uneasy harmony.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne<\/figure>\n
\"Anne
Photography by James Cochrane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Despite partnering with UGG on four bespoke styles \u2013 reworking the Quill Ballet Trainer, GoldenGlow Embossed Sandal, Otzo Clog and Minimel Trainer through the collection\u2019s lens \u2013 it was the brand\u2019s classic boots that received the SOLAS treatment for AW26. The Malm\u00f6-based airbrush artist collaborated closely with the designers, developing custom pattern work that extended beyond footwear. Those same ghostly forms resurfaced on one of the hero dresses: exaggerated shoulder pads, layered drapes, a silhouette that felt almost possessed.<\/p>\n

Anne Sofie Madsen might not be afraid of ghosts. The only spirits we\u2019re interested in, though, are the ones slipping out of her wardrobe.<\/p>\n

Words \u2013 Sofia Ferreira<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n

\t\t<\/p>\n

\n
\n\t\t\t\t11 February 2026\t\t\t<\/div>\n
\n
\n
Fashion<\/a><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>
\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>
\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>
\n\t\t\t\t<\/a>
\n\t\t\t<\/span>
\n\t\t<\/section>\n

\n\t\t\t\tThe Trew Effect<\/span> <\/span><\/a>\t\t\t<\/div>\n
\n\t\t\t\tEurosonic and the Significance of the Showcase Festival<\/span> <\/span><\/a>\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Wonderland ANNE SOFIE MADSEN ISN\u2019T SCARED OF GHOSTS For the brand\u2019s second show on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar under the NewGen umbrella, Anne Sofie Madsen and newly appointed co-creative director Caroline Clante lean into the persistence of a lost future \u2013 finding beauty in the macabre as they cement themselves as collaborative masterminds […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[226,257],"class_list":["post-1761351","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-crawlmanager","tag-wonderlandmagazine-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1761351","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1761351"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1761351\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1761351"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1761351"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1761351"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}