{"id":1044645,"date":"2025-12-09T11:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-12-09T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1044645"},"modified":"2025-12-09T11:00:00","modified_gmt":"2025-12-09T08:00:00","slug":"emily-in-paris-costume-designer-marylin-fitoussi-on-all-the-key-season-5-references","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/?p=1044645","title":{"rendered":"\u2018Emily in Paris\u2019 Costume Designer Marylin Fitoussi on All the Key Season 5 References"},"content":{"rendered":"
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TV & Movies<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Anita Pallenberg, Sophia Loren, and Sharon Stone in Casino<\/em>: Emily in Paris<\/em>\u2019s Costume Designer on All the Key Season 5 References<\/h1>\n
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By <\/span>Radhika Seth<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

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Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Emily in Paris<\/em> wouldn\u2019t be the show that it is without a number of things: Lily Collins as its indomitable lead, Emily Cooper; the impossibly glamorous Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu as her venomous boss, Sylvie; the musical stylings of Ashley Park\u2019s Mindy; the picturesque surroundings of various European capitals; and, of course, the costumes.<\/p>\n

With her Eiffel Tower-printed blouses, retina-searing berets, high-low hemlines, and Audrey Hepburn cosplay, the Midwestern marketing executive made, er, quite a splash in the City of Light\u2014and has been upping the ante ever since. Last season, upon relocating to Rome, there were a flurry of Roman Holiday<\/em> tributes. But when we reunite with our heroine this time around, she\u2019s much more settled in her new home. The clashing prints and occasionally mind-boggling impracticality remains, naturally, but there\u2019s also a little more structure and grounding\u2014more suits and jumpsuits, more trousers and shorts, a scarf tied at the neck to protect her from \u201ccolpo d\u2019aria\u201d (a hit of wind, as Emily explains), and more flats, all paired with Collins\u2019s sleek new bob.<\/p>\n

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Lily Collins\u2019s Emily Cooper (in an Alice + Olivia suit) and Ashley Park\u2019s Mindy in Emily in Paris,<\/em> Season 5.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Responsible for this Roman makeover is the twice Emmy-nominated French costume designer Marylin Fitoussi, who has been overseeing the fashion of Darren Star\u2019s Netflix hit since day one. (Sex and the City<\/em> and The Devil Wears Prada<\/em>\u2019s Patricia Field was a costume consultant on the first two seasons before handing the reins fully to her esteemed colleague.) When I meet the exuberant Fitoussi on Zoom\u2014she in bright red lipstick, a striking black headscarf, and a shirt with fluorescent frills\u2014the origins of Emily\u2019s style are immediately and abundantly clear.<\/p>\n

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Lily Collins\u2019s Emily Cooper in a S\u00e9bline shirt and jacket, in Emily in Paris<\/em> season five.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Caroline Dubois\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Ahead of the show\u2019s arrival on December 18\u2014and the release of her new book Emily in Paris: The Fashion Guide<\/em> (Assouline), with a foreword by Darren Star\u2014Fitoussi talks us through her most unexpected muses for this season, dressing Emily for a dazzling trip to Venice, and the supporting character who will soon emerge as a stealthy style icon.<\/p>\n

Vogue<\/em>: When we see Emily in Rome, she looks very settled\u2014she\u2019s in more suits, prints, the little neck scarves. What\u2019s changed about her style?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Marylin Fitoussi:<\/strong> It\u2019s more elevated. There are a lot of Italian brands: Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Moschino. In the little scarves and everything else, there\u2019s something quite romantic. She\u2019s more relaxed, more sensual. For once, she\u2019s chosen love over work, so her clothes needed to reflect that. There are romantic silhouettes, too\u2014\u201950s-style cuts, big tulip skirts. And Emily wears more red. It\u2019s the colour of love, of passion, of Louboutin soles, of power. This time, Emily breaks the rules and is totally fearless.<\/p>\n

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Emily, in a red Barbara Bui suit, with Mindy.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Caroline Dubois\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

There\u2019s also a new haircut\u2014very sleek and modern\u2014which meant we could change up the proportions of Emily\u2019s look to fit better with that. And I also pay tribute to a lot of black-and-white, \u201950s Italian movies.<\/p>\n

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Emily in a Antonio Marras dress and kimono, with Eugenio Franceschini\u2019s Marcello.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Who are the movie stars of that era that inspired you?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Sophia Loren\u2014the movies she made with Marcello Mastroianni, like Marriage Italian Style<\/em> and Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow<\/em>, and also Arabesque<\/em>. Silvana Mangano in Bitter Rice<\/em>, Claudia Cardinale, Anna Magnani. They\u2019re icons, and they had real style and personality. They also wore a lot of polka dots, which you see on Emily this season, too.<\/p>\n

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The Audrey Hepburn references aren\u2019t as pronounced as last season, but they\u2019re still in there, right?<\/strong><\/p>\n

There\u2019s a look which has that Audrey silhouette\u2014the capri pants, boatneck top, and ballet shoes. It\u2019s simple, sharp, and powerful, and quite a departure for Emily. She learns from Sylvie that sometimes less is more, and there are a few more looks like that. And you\u2019ll see Emily in more flats this season, too. She\u2019s more grounded and mature.<\/p>\n

Tell me about your other unexpected muses?<\/strong><\/p>\n

There was Juliette Gr\u00e9co during her Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s days with Miles Davis\u2014there\u2019s a very simple black look which references that. The silhouette is so pure, it\u2019s almost shocking in the show. There\u2019s also a reference to Capucine in The Pink Panther<\/em>, with this retro, \u201970s, brocade Huishan Zhang coat. And there\u2019s some \u201970s Anita Pallenberg in there, with the printed jumpsuits.<\/p>\n

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Lily Collins in a Diane von Furstenberg jumpsuit in Emily in Paris<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n

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Anita Pallenberg in 1960<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Getty Images<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Beyond that, there\u2019s some mob wife\u2014a bit Sharon Stone in Casino<\/em>. It\u2019s that feeling and those fabrics in one look, though our silhouette is different. And there\u2019s a Galliano vintage jacket and pencil skirt that\u2019s quite Tippi Hedren in The Birds<\/em>. It\u2019s beautiful.<\/p>\n

And how does Emily\u2019s style change between Rome and Venice?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Venice outfits are even more romantic. Emily arrives in Venice in this polka dot Stine Goya crop top and tulip skirt.<\/p>\n

With the monochrome, the silhouette, and the playfulness, it felt to me a bit like Carrie arriving in Paris?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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It was probably in the corner of my mind\u2014maybe an unconscious tribute. The cut is very simple but the proportions are a bit more extravagant. I love Sex and the City<\/em>, so maybe you\u2019re right. It\u2019s in the same tradition of when you arrive in a new place and want to look spectacular.<\/p>\n

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Emily in a Stine Goya top and skirt, in Venice.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n

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Sarah Jessica Parker\u2019s Carrie in Paris in Sex and the City<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Home Box Office, Inc.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Coming on to Sylvie, she wears a naked dress this season that I thought was sensational. What\u2019s she like in Rome versus Paris?<\/strong><\/p>\n

That dress is from The Attico. Sylvie\u2019s much more sensual in Rome. She shows her sexuality in a very different way compared to Paris\u2014it\u2019s almost a bit more aggressive. In Paris, you\u2019ll see her in beautiful Alberta Ferretti archive pieces, and she\u2019s sexy and powerful, but she\u2019s more in control and wears more suits. You see her body more in Rome. The shapes and materials are different. In this season\u2019s last episode, in Venice, she wears another Attico look\u2014a metal dress. It\u2019s simple but powerful as hell.<\/p>\n

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Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu\u2019s Sylvie in Emily in Paris<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

And Mindy always brings it, of course. What are your favourite looks on her this season?<\/strong><\/p>\n

There\u2019s a great beaded blue minidress, a yellow dress, and a lime green look from a young Spanish designer, Celia B. That\u2019s one of my favorites because it\u2019s so unexpected.<\/p>\n

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Ashley Park\u2019s Mindy in Emily in Paris<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

You also dressed Minnie Driver this season, who plays Sylvie\u2019s friend Princess Jane, a very eccentric member of the royal family.<\/strong><\/p>\n

It was love at first sight. She arrived on set the night before we started shooting, so I was sweating, like, Please, God, give me the right dress for her.<\/em> But we connected straight away and built her character. She wore St\u00e9phane Rolland, Selezza, La DoubleJ, Dolce & Gabbana, and some vintage pieces. We leaned into that clich\u00e9d, dramatic Italian style, and had a lot of fun.<\/p>\n

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Minnie Driver\u2019s Princess Jane in Emily in Paris<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

And, finally, the double act that is Luc and Julien. How have their respective styles evolved?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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We\u2019re having even more fun with Julien now, and even Luc\u2014he\u2019s now a dandy. He also has his fashion moment this season, at a party at Maxim\u2019s, and it\u2019s Belle \u00c9poque. He looked great. It was a hit on the set. Some of the girls were jealous, and saying, \u201cHey, aren\u2019t we supposed to be the fashion icons in the show?\u201d It was a moment.<\/p>\n

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Bruno Gouery\u2019s Luc and Samuel Arnold\u2019s Julien in Emily in Paris<\/em>.<\/p>\n

<\/span>Photo: Courtesy of Netflix<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Emily in Paris Season 5 will stream on Netflix from December 18.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n

Source URL: http:\/\/vogue.com\/article\/emily-in-paris-costume-designer-season-5-references<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

TV & Movies Anita Pallenberg, Sophia Loren, and Sharon Stone in Casino: Emily in Paris\u2019s Costume Designer on All the Key Season 5 References By Radhika Seth December 9, 2025 Photo: Giulia Parmigiani\/Netflix Emily in Paris wouldn\u2019t be the show that it is without a number of things: Lily Collins as its indomitable lead, Emily […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[50],"class_list":["post-1044645","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-politics","tag-vogue-com"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1044645","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1044645"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1044645\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1044645"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1044645"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/analyse.optim.biz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1044645"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}