How to Set Under-Eye Concealer For a Crease-Free Finish

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How to Set Under-Eye Concealer For a Crease-Free Finish

Part of a woman's face as she applies concealer under her eyePart of a woman's face as she applies concealer under her eye

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If you ask us, under-eye concealer is a necessary evil. Sure, it can help hide dark circles and brighten tired eyes, but the application process is a battle we often find ourselves on the losing end of. The struggle against creasing, smudging, and caking is often fraught, leaving us far more frustrated than the imperfections we were trying to cover in the first place. Whether you’re a makeup novice or a seasoned pro, we’ve all found ourselves in this very situation. So we did something about it and asked professional makeup artists Tim Quinn and Brielle Pollara for their best tips and tricks for applying and setting under-eye concealer without the stress. Keep reading for your best under-eye glow-up yet.

Meet the Experts

  • Tim Quinn is a celebrity makeup artist who has painted notable faces such as Christie Brinkley, Diane Lane, Glenn Close, and Megan Fox. He is the co-founder of Halo 42 Official.
  • Brielle Pollara is a licensed esthetician and makeup artist in New York.
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Hydrate First

Before you apply concealer, you have to prep your skin—a step you shouldn’t skip, says Quinn. “Hydration is key when it comes to applying concealer and makeup in general,” he tells us. “I spend a few moments massaging the eye area pre-concealer application with hydrating products that will get the job done.”

Pollara adds that using eye masks with superior ingredients before applying makeup is a great way to prep the under-eye area. “Hyaluronic acid hydrates, caffeine reduces puffiness, and peptides help the skin become firmer. By using products with these ingredients, you will create a better base for makeup application, helping the makeup stay on longer,” Pollara continues.

To hydrate skin, it’s smart to start with something light such as Protéger’s Dermal Sérum on the face and under the eyes. Thanks to the thin consistency and inclusion of hyaluronic acid, it hydrates the under-eye area without a greasy cream finish. After the serum is fully dry, it’s a good time to follow up with an eye cream such as Ilia’s Bright Start Retinol Alternative Brightening Eye Cream. Massaging it in until absorbed for its full benefits, including some boosted circulation. If you have deeper circles, it’s especially important to include a prep product that brightens from the start.

Because the skin under the eyes is thinner than everywhere else on the face, allow proper time for your prep products to absorb and fully dry before moving on to the next step. Most importantly: Be gentle with your prep and massage—there should be no pulling or tugging of the skin under the eyes.

Byrdie Tip

“When caring for skin with fine lines or hollows, avoid harsh ingredients as they can strip the skin, leaving it feeling dry and irritated,” notes Pollara. “It is crucial to focus on hydrating formulas that protect the skin’s natural barrier.”

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Find the Right Formula

Concealers come in different formulas with different levels of coverage, so it’s imperative to find the right formula for you. It’s best practice to test a few before committing to one. That way, you can get an idea of the consistency and coverage and if the product will cater to your specific needs.

“Choose concealers that are lightweight and consist of creamy formulas, as they provide a more natural finish,” says Pollara. “Medium-coverage concealers often provide a dewy finish but are likely to settle in lines. A lightweight concealer, like a gel or liquid formula, keeps your face looking fresh and natural.”

We like products that can be layered and look natural, so we opt for concealers that can be layered on and blended without a thick residue like Armani Beauty’s Luminous Silk Face and Under-Eye Concealer.

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Layer the Application

“Taking the less-is-more approach to conceal is best,” says Quinn, who usually starts with the inner corners, covering darkness as needed, before moving to the outer edges of the eyes. “I will apply the product with a concealer brush and then either gently press it in with a damp BeautyBlender Makeup Sponge or use my fingertips to smooth it out and blend.” If you’re more of a brush person, we like Anisa Beauty’s Angled Concealer Brush for inner corner coverage and blending outward.

Those with more mature skin might want to add a little more hydration during this step. “When it comes to mature skin, I will take the same approach, although I add a drop of Halo42 Anti-Aging Eye Oil to the concealer to keep it dewy, giving it that lit-from-within look.”

Pollara adds that those with mature skin should avoid full-matte concealers that can exacerbate dryness and increase the texture of the skin. “Apply concealer only where needed, like under the eyes and around the nose,” she continues. “Use a thin layer that will blend easily into the skin.”

Whether you’ve got mature skin or not, Quinn’s pro tip is to keep a bottle of eye oil in your bag. “If your eye area starts to crease later in the day, a tiny drop applied with your ring finger and gently tapped onto the area will refresh and brighten without [having to add] more concealer or powder.”

If under-eye hollows are your main concern, Pollara recommends starting with a brightening under-eye concealer that has a light undertone to help counteract dark circles and add some brightness to the area. “Before applying concealer, consider using a color corrector to neutralize darker tones under the eyes for an even base,” she adds, noting the Charlotte Tilbury Mini Magic Vanish Color Corrector as a personal favorite. “To keep the skin looking youthful and clean, avoid the use of heavy eye makeup, as it can cause the under-eye area to appear hollower and darker.” If you need to color-correct anything, a color corrector should be applied in layers before the concealer and lightly pressed into the skin.

Byrdie Tip

“Avoid leaving the concealer on your face for too long, it can dry quickly and become harder to blend,” explains Pollara. “To make the application process smoother, warm the concealer before applying it. You can warm up concealer by rubbing it on the back of your hand, using your body heat.”

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Set With Powder

Powder, whether pressed or translucent, can be incredible at setting and mattifying makeup and skin without leaving it looking heavy. “I use powder as a last step in the concealing process,” says Quinn. “I’ll take a translucent or pressed formula and use a velvet puff to gently press and roll over where I’ve applied the concealer. This process removes excess makeup and concealer delicately for a seamless finish.”

For mature eyes, Pollara recommends using a fine-milled setting powder because it’s more translucent and helps prevent the powder from settling into fine lines.

Quinn’s favorite is Charlotte Tilbury’s Airbrush Flawless Finish Setting Powder in Natural. If a loose translucent powder is more of your speed, Quinn says that’s perfectly fine; he suggests lightly dusting and blending under the eyes with a fan brush. “Apply it with a makeup brush with no harsh bristles or a damp sponge to ensure an even layer will be applied,” echoes Pollara.

To blend out the powder, try Real Techniques’ Miracle 2-in-1 Dual-Sided Puff, lightly pressing it under the eyes and working through any creasing. This compact can also be kept in your bag and used as a touch-up product if needed, as the finish and texture are thin enough for reapplication.

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Spray for a Long-Lasting Finish

Setting spray can work wonders, so this is an imperative last step in this tutorial but Pollara suggests applying far earlier in the routine. “Start by using a setting or hydrating spray before applying powder. The hydration helps the products lock in and stay on your skin longer,” she explains. “Be careful to not overuse setting spray because it can cause the skin to look more textured.”

Once you’ve concealed to your heart’s desire and have finished the rest of your makeup look, a setting spray will help set your makeup and prevent smudging throughout the day. Hold a setting spray like MAC Cosmetic’s Fix+ Stay Over Alcohol-Free 16HR Setting Spray at least 6-8 inches away from the face and spray generously all over, making sure to let the product fully dry. “Bring some touch-up spray or blotting paper in case the skin becomes too oily. This will help maintain a shine-free look,” adds Pollara.

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